Food & Drink

Indian food – but not as you know it

You’d think it might be hard to add some genuine freshness to Soho’s saturated food scene but new Indian street food joint Mooli’s has managed just that. Launched by a pair of lawyers turned entrepreneurs who grew up in India, they’ve built the menu around home-made roti breads filled with a choice of carefully-sourced and selected fillings – Keralan braised beef, Goan pork, cumin-roasted potatoes, chicken or paneer and the signature special of (surprisingly succulent) goat, spiced Punjabi style.

It’s all served with a variety of chutneys, salsas and side dishes – and if you fancy something stronger than a mango lassi, there’s always the option of that crucial curry component, cold beer. It’s light, subtle but strongly flavoured Indian food that won’t make you feel like a lie-down. It will however make you feel like coming back to try the rest of the menu. 50 Frith Street, London, www.moolis.com