The bespokesman - lido collars

Esquire's bespoke specialist, Mansel Fletcher, introduces the concept of the lido-collared shirt (that's a shirt specifically designed to be worn without a tie just in case you didn't know already). 

"I first came across the idea of open-neck shirts in FG Roma, a wonderful little shop between the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo in the Italian capital. It was spring 2001 and back then I rarely wore a tie, so a shirt designed to be worn open at the neck seemed like a stroke of genius. The style is variously described as a lido or pyjama collar, and it’s different from normal shirts because when the collar is open there’s no stitching or seams visible in the collar band, and it then runs, still without a visible join, down the front of the shirt into the buttons.

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

Suddenly, wearing a regular shirt open-necked seems a bit of a compromise, especially on holiday; nothing else seems quite right for a civilized beach lunch at a place like Es Torrent in Ibiza (our benchmark for relaxed continental chic).

The reason this story is in the bespoke section is because these collars are very hard things to find (outside of Loro Piana shops) and I spent a few years, and a lot of money, asking bespoke shirt makers to replicate the example I’d bought in Rome. Finally I stumbled upon Robert Whittaker, highly regarded shirt-maker at Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner, who was able to re-create this." Loro Piana shirt, £245; bespoke lido shirt from Dege & Skinner, £187.50