Eat Like A Man: The 'Goanut'

In our new quest to conquer the strangest foods in Britain, Esquire tries the doughnut / goats cheese hybrid hoping to take on the cronut...

Earlier this year, The Dominique Ansel Bakery in New York introduced the world to the ‘cronut’, a croissant-doughnut hybrid that has already completed the journey from foodie fad to high street imitation (Greggs announced the ‘Greggsnut’ this week, effectively killing any gourmet cachet that cronut had left with one blow).

In the mean time, one London chef has came up with an even more unusual alternative to the cronut that should appeal a lot more to those of us who balk at the idea of ‘two desserts in one’.

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The ‘goanut’, devised at London’s Tower Hotel, is a doughnut stuffed with goat’s cheese. So rather than sweet-on-sweet, dairy-on-sweet – or, as head chef Christian Rozsenich puts it to me, "flavours that walk around your tongue without confusing it".

It’s true the goanut walks a tight rope between savoury starter and sweet snack that few other dishes tread (it is served as the former, with a beetroot compote and caramalised pecan nuts) but, happily, it bounds over the finish with a flourish.

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The dough is as warm and sweet and delicious as any good fairground fare, while the delicate cheese sets it off perfectly. The aforementioned beetroot is an inspired addition.

While you’re there, you might as well sample the Tower’s other excellent starters, including a seafood bisque with an cheeky chilli oil kick and a lobster ravioli that will melt in your mouth.

It seems good things do come of food fads after all – and not just at Greggs.

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EAT LIKE A MAN
The cocktail made of insects
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