Esquire’s Area Guides #1: Fulham

Eat, drink and be merry in Chelsea’s affordable neighbour

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Whether you’re waiting for kick-off at Stamford Bridge or spending Saturday afternoon exploring what south-west London has to offer, our Fulham guide has you covered, from pubs and restaurants to the perfect Negroni.

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1 | The Upmarket Roast: The Harwood Arms

Set back from the hustle and bustle of Fulham Broadway station, The Harwood Arms can be found a short walk away at the end of Walham Grove. If your in-laws are in town, this is the place to take them for a high-end Sunday roast, with a set menu beginning at £33.50 per head. Seeing as this is London’s only Michelin-starred pub, you don’t have to take our word that it’s worth the extra cash. The Braised cheek of Longhorn beef comes highly recommended, while the rhubarb and sherry trifle should take care of your mother-in-law. Booking advised.

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Walham Grove, SW6 1QP, 020 7386 1847, harwoodarms.com 


2 | The Caribbean Influence: Jerky’s

How well do you know your Jerk? Said to have originated from escaped African slaves mixing up a spice-heavy marinade to help preserve the wild boar they hunted in Jamaica, jerk seasoning has long been a feature of London eating. Jerky’s on Walham Grove is our pick of the area's Caribbean restaurants with rice, peas, plantains and ribs all on point. Don’t worry if you can’t handle your spice, milder options are available (but we suggest you order these anonymously to avoid embarassment).

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62 Walham Grove, SW6 1QR, 020 7386 5533, jerkys.com


3 | The Romantic Meal For Two: Al Santo

There’s nowhere quite like Al Santo in London. A family run Italian and Greek restaurant on Fulham’s Vanston Place, Al Santo will make you feel like you’ve wandered into someone’s living room. Chairs and tables are an eclectic and homely mix, different coloured fairy lights glow from the ceiling beams, accordions and assorted instruments hang on the walls and the menus are made from 1960s album sleeves. Go on a Saturday night to enjoy the company of the local street band stopping by to play folk classics on guitars and harmonica. Red wine is a must and it takes better men than us to resist the tiramisu.

23 Vanston Place, SW6 1AZ, 020 7385 8277, alsanto.co.uk 


4 | The Saturday Afternoon Pint: The Cock Tavern

If you want to escape the Saturday afternoon football crowds for a quiet pint of Camden Hells, The Cock Tavern should be your first choice. Recently refurbished, the emphasis is on open spaces, bright furniture (including a 70s style hanging egg chair) wooden floors and modern art. The board game selection is second to none, the staff are friendly and the menu includes a black pudding scotch egg. What more do you need to know?

360 North End Road, SW6 1LY, 020 7385 6021, cocktavern.co.uk


5 | The Fishmonger: Cope’s Seafood

A good fishmonger is hard to come by these days, which is why Cope’s Seafood on Fulham Road deserves a special mention. Run by an Italian family, not only will they serve you the perfect tuna steak and the freshest calamari, they’ll also give you a recipe to cook it by, should you require assistance. Plus, they list the names of all their fish in five languages, just in case you really want to show off to your dinner guests. Disfrute de su comida!

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778 Fulham Road, SW6 5SJ, 020 7371 7300


6 | The Japanese Café: Don 2

Donburi is a traditional Japanese dish consisting of a range of ingredients including meat, fish and vegetables simmered together and served over rice. It’s a speciality of Don 2’s head chef Hiro, and the dish from which the restaurant takes its name. The menu also boasts the best sashimi, sushi and soba dishes in the area, all served in a bright and airy restaurant on Farm Lane. For the adventurous among you, the rice burgers (beef, chicken teriyaki, hijiki sandwiched in rice) are a good place to start.

6 Farm Lane, SW6 1PP, 020 7386 5422, don2cafe.com 


7 | The Coffee And Cake: Chairs & Coffee

What’s marginally better than enjoying a nice latte? Sitting down at the same time, of course - something Chairs & Coffee realised a long time ago. An intimate, friendly café just around the corner from Fulham Broadway station, the café serves toasted sourdough sandwiches, juices and coffee by day and cheese platters, mezze boards and a selection of wines and rare beers by night. Our recommendation? Stop by to sample coffee from Guatemala, Burundi or Brazil at lunch, then return in the evening to sample a bottle of San Francisco’s finest export, Anchor Steam Beer.

512 Fulham Road, SW6 5NJ,020 7018 1913, chairsandcoffee.co.uk


8 | The Summer-Time Gelato: Gelato Rilato

Going for a gelato in March feels a bit premature, we know, but stick with us. Should you find yourself wandering down to Bishop’s Park from Fulham station, there’s no better place to stop off for some refreshment than Gelato Rilato. As well as operating as a fully-fledged Italian restaurant, they’re known locally as the place to go for a range of sundaes, from a Opera Italiana (hazelnut & coffee gelato, nausella sauce and amaretti crunch) to a Pistacia Year (Bronte Pistachio Gelato, vanilla gelato and whipped cream). The good news is all ice cream is available wholesale, should you have a desperate craving for 4.8 liters of Crème Brule gelato. 

825 Fulham Road, SW6 5HG, 020 7736 9429, gelatorialto.co.uk


9 | The Post-Game Pint: The Butcher’s Hook

Rumour has it that over a hundred years ago, a handshake in this pub founded Chelsea Football Club. With Stamford Bridge a stone’s throw across the road, The Butcher’s Hook definitely has football in its DNA. If that sounds pretty far from your ideal place for a pint, don’t worry, outside of match days it’s a relaxed and airy hangout, serving excellent food all day every day. The sage & onion sausage rolls and Croque Monsieur make great afternoon snacks, but really, all you need to know is that Tuesday night is pie night.

477 Fulham Road, SW6 1HL, 0207 385 4654, thebutchershook.co.uk


10 | The Wine Bar: Shot Espresso

Fulham’s pedestrianised Jerdan Place is the perfect location for that lazy weekend drink in the sun. Shot Espresso is our pick of the bunch with a menu covering all bases, from salmon bagels to homemade lasagne. What this cafe really specialises in, however, is aperitifs – in particular their unbeatable Negronis and signature Aperol Spritz. Order a drink and a buffet platter and make the most of the café’s 11pm closing time by taking up residence on one of the patio tables outside. A world away from the Café Nero across the street.

11 Jerdan Place, Fulham, SW6 1BE, 020 7381 5572, shotespresso.com 

Anything we've missed?


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