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Esquire Eats | Cinammon Soho

Esquire Eats | Cinammon Soho

The Cinnamon Club's Soho sister restaurant offers a very different approach to Indian cooking. But the food's just as good.

Where the well-established Cinnamon Club in Westminster combines a colonial feel with classically executed Indian dining, Cinnamon Soho is a product of its neighbourhood, offering a deliberately contemporary and casual approach to decor and dishes.

To help ram the home the point that chef and proprietor Vivek Singh's latest offering is aimed firmly at a younger and more urban-minded crowd, the prominent cocktail bar, western soundtrack and intimate seating plan leaves you in little doubt.

The menu is street-food inspired and taps in to the vogue for sharing platters, but with solid main dishes (Smoked saddle of Cumbrian lamb, Old Delhi-style tandoori fenugreek chicken, Vindaloo of ox cheek) still on offer for those who like to keep it to themselves.

The Indian tapas idea is nothing new but when it's executed by someone of Vivek Singh's experience it's no surprise to find that pretty much everything works.

What to try: Crab Cakes, Haleem, Bangla–scotch egg and burnt chilli chicken

What to drink: Lotus Blossom (Gin, Blue Curaçao, lychee purée, lemon juice and grenadine)

Cinnamon Soho, 5 Kingly Street, London W1 (020–7437 1664; cinnamonsoho.com) Open 11am–11pm six days a week and for brunch on Sundays.