Downtime dining at Hudson Hall

With “pop-up eateries”, “supper clubs” and “avant garde dining experiences” two-a-penny these days, it’s tricky to make a mark on the restaurant scene.

The latest opening from the Morgans Hotel Group, Hudson Hall, seems to have got it right, with a no-frills offering in midtown NYC. Replacing the Hudson Hotel’s well-liked Cafeteria, the hall is all about atmosphere and honest food – which, we’re told, is sourced entirely from the New York-Hudson Valley area.

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Designed by Arne Quinze, the restaurant’s communal tables and tray-stacked trolleys are at risk of bringing tapioca and over cooked-cabbage to mind, but thankfully Quinze’s lightness of touch and appreciation of material ensures that isn't the case.

The menu is canteen-inspired and simple – think pasta, cold cuts and salads – but the drinks list ups the ante with a hefty cocktail presence. Though, in light of the Hall’s laid-back ethos we’d recommend kicking back with a cold beer and a dry-aged Wagyu of Beef with Cabot clothbound cheddar Hudson Slider (that’s a steak sandwich, to you and me).

Hudson Hall is now open at The Hudson Hotel, 356 West 58th Street at Hudson New York. www.hudsonhotel.com