Dinner and dancing at Maddox

There comes a time in every man’s life (the age off 22 in this man’s case) when one begins to realise that eating one's dinner in a nightclub is not all that it’s cracked up to be.

Ignoring that fact, Maddox, the Mayfair member’s club, bar and restaurant favoured by both the beautiful and the brash, has this month opened its restaurant to the public. We popped down last week to try out the menu, unsure of what to expect, knowing Maddox better for snaps of celebs falling into cabs than its gastronomic prowess.

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On the food front, we were pleasantly surprised. Obscenely large prawns came fresh and compliant upon dollops of tangy guacamole, while tuna steaks were seared to perfection inside a potent crust of sesame seeds and treacly Yakiniku Sauce.

Puddings faired less well –a gelatinous panacotta in a cocktail glass will not be to everyone’s taste - but on the whole, the food was good. The impressive cocktail list did the job and the atmosphere was all you’d expect from a restaurant where the leggy resident dj is close enough to nick a chip. With a three-course menu at £35, value was better than expected.

If you fancy starting the night in more refined surrounds, The Langham Hotel on Portland Place has opened a temporary ”Terrace Garden” just in time for Wimbeldon. Serving up Pimms and Meze until August, we’d recommend kicking back with a glass of Laurent-Perrier rose – the perfect preparation for a night of hard “clining” (that’s clubbing and dining for those not in the know).

Terrace Garden