The National Dish: Kerbisher & Malt

If you like your cod flaky, pearly white and beautifully cooked, and your chips crunchy, fluffy and tasting earthily of potato — that is to say, if you like damn-near perfect fish and chips — you’ll love Kerbisher & Malt.

The west London chippies do Britain’s national dish properly, thanks to the culinary wizardry of ex-Oxo Tower chef Saul Reuben and his brother-in-law Nick Crossley. With a menu boasting all the classics — plus more selective options like fennel and dill salad (£2.50) and fish coated in matzo meal — K&M has been lauded by critics and chefs alike. And that’s before we mention the lemon mayonnaise.

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“K&M takes the very essence of a chippy and just makes it so much better,” Heston Blumenthal says. Most importantly, following exhaustive research, Kerbisher & Malt was named Esquire’s Best Contemporary Chippy in Britain back in August 2011 — no higher praise, surely. New branches in Ealing and (coming soon) Mortlake suggest world domination is just around the corner.

Cod and chips £8.70, 164 Shepherds Bush Road, London kerbisher.co.uk

See more of the country's finest in Esquire's September Made in Britain issue: on sale now.