Though Peaky Blinders is heading for its final ever season (do not cry, my child), its presence will live on after Cillian Murphy's Tommy Shelby hangs up the baker boy hat for good. That's because it'll live on in the baker boy hats bought on the back of the wildly popular series' success, with the British show proving to be an influence in wardrobes up and down the country (and, perhaps, across the world).
Costume designer Stephanie Collie has had a huge hand in this. Basing the costume department on criminal mug shots from the early 20th century, Collie set the temperature of Peaky Blinders with her work on the very first series.
"You could see everything in so much detail: the cufflinks, the tie-pins, the textures," she told Esquire. Collie could also explain why the show had resonated so strongly. "Because, at heart, I think every Englishman wants to wear a suit."
Despite the many rumours that tailoring is on the decline, the Shelby gang (and their copycats) would prove otherwise. And, in the fairly expansive timeline of Peaky Blinders, several seminal eras of suiting are covered: the big and boxy Twenties, the cinched Thirties and the broader, boxier Forties. With a few changes here and there, there's every reason why it could work in 2022, too.
So, without further ado, here are the six key elements to achieving a subtle Peaky Blinders look that isn't all cosplay.
1 | The Jacket
When it comes to your outerwear, your coat should be long, lapelled and heavy enough to withstand the depths of a Birmingham winter (or at least the walk from the station to your office).
"We deliberately used longer coats to get that High Noon feeling, when the gangs are walking to each other" says Collie. "Gunslingers going against each other, as their coats flap in the wind".
Getting the right fit and texture means shelling out, but a great overcoat is more than worth the investment. It's a truly timeless style that will last you for years, will elevate your outfit, and combine with a range of different styles, too. When it comes to material and design, Prince of Wales check, herringbone tweed and other heritage patterns and fabrics are good options, but you'll do just as well with plain dark shades of charcoal, navy, racing green and black.
2 | The Suits
"We had a couple of suits made for Cillian, from a fantastic tailor called Keith Watson," says Collie. "You need a good three piece suit. [For the Peaky Blinders look] I'd suggest that you get the trousers narrowed and shortened. I think if even one man has bought a suit because of Peaky, I'll be very, very happy."
If you can opt for a bespoke suit then that's great, but there are plenty of off-the-rack options that will do the job too – although we always advise taking your clothes to a tailor to ensure they fit perfectly. Tweed, checks and textured grey, blue and brown suits are the order of the day for the Shelby clan (apart from Michael, who is beginning to take more influence more his wide-lapelled American counterparts).
Of course, if you want to go for the whole shebang, opt for a waistcoat too – but that comes with its own risks. If you don't want to get mistaken for a waiter/Gareth Southgate, we suggest keeping your blazer on and steering clear navy and black.
3 | The Shirt
One of the most instantly recognisable aspects of the Peaky Blinders style is the gang's rotating rail of stylish penny collar shirts. Featuring a smaller, rounder collar than your usual button-up, a penny collar acts as a solid middle-ground between the granddad collar and traditional collar shirt.
But a granddad collar won't do the job. Style yours in crisp white, fully-buttoned, for that Cillian look. Or swap in something darker in soft flannel with a few buttons undone for a more casual winter weekend style. Of all the elements of the Peaky Blinders look, the grandad shirt is perhaps the most versatile.
4 | The Boots
An essential element in any even vaguely Blinders-esque look is a pair of solid, stylish and well worn leather boots in dark brown or black leather. "A good pair of lace up boots that go above your ankle," advises Collie.
A great pairing with the higher crop of your trousers, give yours a few laps around the Sunday food market (or an underground bare knuckle boxing match in gangland Birmingham) for the full give-a-f*ck effect, which is, of course, vital. You might have a bit of a hard time wearing them in, but it'll all be worth it.
5 | The Hat
They may seem intimidating bulky, but you needn't worry about pulling off a baker boy cap. "They're a really easy thing to wear," says Collie. "Pick the right six-piece section cap, and I think you'd have a great outfit."
When it comes to authenticity and quality, Lock & Co Hatters is the place to go. The St. James Street institution has been crafting hats since the mid-1600s, so they know a thing or two. Alternatively, you could opt for a flat cap instead, which are a more understated expression of the look.
Also – and we really shouldn't have to say this – don't wear it backwards.
6 | The Hair
There's not a barber in England who hasn't been inundated with demands for the Peaky Blinders undercut over the past decade. We asked Simon Crawford at Johnny's Chop Shop in Soho for his top tips on achieving the haircut, and the process is pretty simple.
Ask to have your hair shaved on the sides while keeping the weight on top, transitioned with a slick skin fade to give it a modern edge. He suggests shaving the sides every few weeks to keep it looking clean, and styling it with texturising spray over wet hair.
A blow-dry and a vent brush will help to train it in the right direction, and a dab of clay will keep everything in place. Then, and only then, can you plonk a baker boy hat on top and ruin all of you hard work.
And there you have it. An outfit that will strike fear into the hearts of all you meet. That was the aim, right? Well then you're more than welcome.
