Next summer's hottest trends, this summer.
Ok, we know what you're thinking. Why on earth should you give a damn about what you'll be wearing in the balmy months of 2013, when we're still in the depths of summer 2012? (Not that you'd know it.) Well, over the past month or so, across the fashion capitals of Europe, designers have been traipsing next year's trends down the runways and being the considerate souls we are, we thought you'd appreciate a heads up. It's good to plan ahead, after all.
Less a trend, more a seasonal given, designers have been passing around the colour blocking baton for some time now. The season's best blocks were at Salvatore Ferragamo, where closely cut granddad shirts, unlined blazers and cropped trousers came in solid pastel shades, teamed with brighter hues on overcoats and sneakers. It wasn't all soft and summery though, the autumnal palette of recent seasons was still out in force, from Gucci's beautifully cut burgundy double-breasted suit, above, to Paul Smith's mustard-hued cigarette trousers and rust-coloured suits.
(top image - from left to right, Gucci - Paul-Smith - Prada. Bottom image - from left to right, Berluti - Diesel Black Gold - Salvatore Ferragamo)
Camo is yet another trend which has been pushing it's way to the fore for a few seasons now, but next summer it arrives in earnest. Embrace your inner GI and wear the pattern bold in muted shades. Our favourite take on the look was at Dries Van Noten, where the Belgian designer lined his beautifully cut navy trench coats and cropped jackets with a contemporary digitized version of the print. Also worthy of note was Valentino, whose accomplished menswear collection was packed with the stuff (note the brilliant bomber, above right).
(from left to right, Dries Van Noten - Kenzo - Valentino)
The key exponent of SS '13's fluorescent trend was, unexpectedly, Louis Vuitton. The Parisian brand's British style director Kim Jones threw a few curve balls into his third show for the label, with handmade, patchwork denim jackets from Japan sent out alongside nautical cagoules, beautifully cut double breasted suits and eye-wateringly bright, fluorescent leather accessories. Both Hermés and Topman were also in on the trend - we were particularly taken with the former's off-fluorescent lemon trousers and macs.
(from left to right, (Topman - Hermès - Louis Vuitton)
In the world of menswear it takes a long time for a trend to fully catch on, and this season it seems that the trusty blouson has fully arrived. Cut cropped and military at Dior, rave-y and metallic at Burberry and elegantly unfussy at Paul Smith, there were few brands that didn't show at least one blouson, bomber or Harrington jacket. Head to Baracutta for an affordable, classic take on the style for next summer.
(from left to right, Dior Homme - Burberry Prorsum - Paul Smith)
Double Breasted Tailoring
Once maligned as a boxy choice for stout bankers, the double breasted suit has been enjoying a resurgance for some time. For Spring Summer '13 the cut has been rethought and updated in countless different ways - worked into soft cotton short suits at Giorgio Armani, cut close with a looser trouser at Bottega Veneta and cut cropped in bright colours at Gucci and Paul Smith. Start saving now.
(from left to right, Cornelliani - Giorgio Armani - Bottega Veneta)
Read part two of our trend report here.
Words by Teo van den Broeke