Unlike gorpcore or quiet luxury, layering is a styling technique that doesn’t require a fashion degree or hours spent scouring social media to understand. (The clue's in the name.) It’s quick and practical: just put a piece of clothing over another and, hey presto, you’re done! Except, 'layering' is more than just layering, ya know? It's an art form.

Upon first glance, it looks like something that anyone can conquer – ‘I could splatter some paint on a white canvas!’ etc. – but there are unspoken rules to the practice. You have to consider textures, lengths, silhouettes, shades... And then there’s volume. How many layers is too many layers? How many is too few? Remember when Joey Tribbiani wore all of Chandler Bing's clothes? Well, the layering sweet spot is somewhere between that and one single piece of clothing. But fear not, our roadmap to said sweet spot is right here.

new york, ny november 21 actor jake gyllenhaal is seen outside gma on november 21, 2022 in new york city photo by raymond hallgc images
Raymond Hall//Getty Images

When is the right time to layer?

Well, anytime really. The beauty of layering is that it can be done at all times of the year; in winter, it’ll stop that seasonal chill from penetrating your bones and in summer, lighter layers guard against chilly evenings and random bouts of rain.

And it's not like layering can't be smart, either. In truth, a shirt, suit and tie is a simplistic (and near perfect) form of layering, and illustrates how patterns, colours and textures can compliment (or clash). In fact, one of the surest ways to nail the layering look is by topping a suit and tie off with a suitable overcoat; maybe squeeze a little scarf in there, too. A classic navy overcoat over a navy or charcoal suit, for example. (Just make sure the coat is roomy enough – you don't want to be bulging.)

Layering is also great for making something out of nothing. If your wardrobe isn’t striking much inspiration, try pairing two unlikely items and see how it goes. The interplay of incongruous cuts and colours can create a whole new vibe.

The point, ultimately, is that layering makes your outfit more interesting, and in many cases, more flattering. A summer shirt is a summer shirt. But wear a vest underneath and an unstructured blazer over the top and you've got a whole new energy.


Layering Rules

1.Start Light and Get Thicker

The textures of your clothes play an important part in layering, as they’ll add to the dimension of your outfit. And while no material is off limits, it’s worth sticking to this order. Start with a light fabric, like cotton or silk, and layer denser textiles on top. You wouldn’t layer a denim shirt underneath a linen jacket – it just wouldn’t look right. (Unless the denim was suuuuuper soft.)

For obvious reasons, it also helps to build your base from pieces that are naturally more fitted, and then go for looser styles as you layer up. They needn’t be oversized, just slightly baggier than the piece below for it to be comfy as well as proportionally correct.

2. Consider The Colour Wheel

This goes for all styling, generally, but make sure your layers are complimentary in colour. The best way to do that is to consult the famous colour wheel – shades directly opposite one another will look good together, while those next to one another will clash.

Tonal layering is a surprisingly powerful styling tool, too. The whole beige thing is big (if a little played out), but a layered look of similar pastels, or black or even blue denim, can look great. Jeremy Strong is famously wedded to the colour brown, and consequently, very adept at earth-tone layering. Try that.

new york, new york march 20 jeremy strong attends the season 4 premiere of hbos succession at jazz at lincoln center on march 20, 2023 in new york city photo by taylor hillfilmmagic
Taylor Hill//Getty Images

3. Know When To Stop

There is such a thing as too many layers (need I remind you of the aforementioned Friends reference). To avoid that bulky silhouette, it's a good idea to keep to a maximum of three/four layers. Remember that Adrien Brody outfit from Succession? His four layer look was lauded for its off-duty-oligarchness, but it was on the cusp – a fifth layer would have been too much.

4. Your Skin Can Be a Layer

We live an era of so-called 'slutty' menswear, and, joyfully, exhibitionism and pride in ones own form have rarely been as prevalent in mainstream menswear, so use what you got and let your body be the base of a great look. Shawn Mendes is a big champion of the crop top, for example, and they can look great underneath an open shirt, or even with a more formal look.

5. Play With Proportion

It makes sense for each layer to outsize the last, and that's a solid way to explore the trend. But it's not the only way to do it. Consider the singular work of American designer Rick Owens, which regularly features super cropped jackets worn over longline tees. Being an acolyte of Owens is more a fashion state-of-mind than a simple way of dressing, but that doesn't mean you can't knick the trick for yourself.

paris, france june 23 a guest wears black sunglasses, a pale blue shirt, a white latte braided wool gilet, a beige blazer jacket, matching beige suit pants, neon yellow felt shoes , outside dior, during the menswear springsummer 2024 as part of paris fashion week on june 23, 2023 in paris, france photo by edward berthelotgetty images
Edward Berthelot//Getty Images

Layering Essentials

White T-shirt

The classic white tee is more than just a wardrobe staple, it’s a wardrobe definer. (Just look at all the recent fuss around Carmy's heavyweight tee in The Bear.) We already have an extensive guide on how to find the perfect style, but an easy rule to remember is that it should skim, not cling the torso and finish around the middle of your fly.

Slim-Fit Cotton-Blend Jersey T-Shirt
TOM FORD Slim-Fit Cotton-Blend Jersey T-Shirt
£170 at MR PORTER
Credit: Mr Porter
Cotton-Jersey T-Shirt
CDLP Cotton-Jersey T-Shirt
Credit: Mr Porter
Riviera Supima Cotton-Jersey T-Shirt
SUNSPEL Riviera Supima Cotton-Jersey T-Shirt
Credit: Mr Porter

Vest

This is slightly bolder alternative to a white tee, which requires a little more unbuttoning to even be seen. Something with a woven or even sheer finish will allow for more texture in your look, plus it's a little lighter than a tee so better for warmer weather. Anything that gets you closer to Tony Soprano is fine by us.

Strato Tech sleeveless stretch-jersey tank top
VUORI Strato Tech sleeveless stretch-jersey tank top
Credit: Selfridges
Lyocell and Pima Cotton-Blend Jersey Tank Top
CDLP Lyocell and Pima Cotton-Blend Jersey Tank Top
Credit: Mr Porter
Riviera Cotton-Mesh Tank Top
SUNSPEL Riviera Cotton-Mesh Tank Top
Credit: Mr Porter

Regular Fit Shirt

The key, here, is to think of the shirt as a potential filling in a well layered sandwich, or better yet, the a final flourish, so, crucially, it needs to be fairly thin gauge to allow for maximum layerage. The idea is that it adds a pop of colour, or texture, or both, so opt for something with an at least vaguely interesting vibe. A print, for example, or maybe a tattered, timeworn denim.

Stella Camp-Collar Printed Cotton-Poplin Shirt
Mr P. Stella Camp-Collar Printed Cotton-Poplin Shirt
Credit: Mr Porter
Sisco striped silk shirt
The Row Sisco striped silk shirt
Credit: Mytheresa
Artist Stripe patterned regular-fit cotton-poplin shirt
PAUL SMITH Artist Stripe patterned regular-fit cotton-poplin shirt
Credit: Selfridges

Lightweight Gilet

The ultimate – ultimate – mid layer is a lightweight gilet. Not as stuffy as a waistcoat and not as puffy as a winter gilet (which should never be a mid layer, FYI), the functional, workwear-skewed lightweight gilet can smarten up a low-key look, or soften something that feels too smart. 'Functional' stuff and militaria – field jackets, overshirts etc. – are great layering pieces, in general.

Ultra Light Down Compact Vest
UNIQLO Ultra Light Down Compact Vest
Credit: UNIQLO
Tenkara Nylon Vest
South2 West 8 Tenkara Nylon Vest
Credit: END Clothing
Logo-Appliquéd Shell and Mesh Gilet
C.P. COMPANY Logo-Appliquéd Shell and Mesh Gilet
Credit: Mr Porter

Denim Jacket

On first consideration, the durable and hardly malleable nature of denim means that you might be put off from including it in your layering rotation. But think again, because having a denim jacket pocking out from underneath your overcoat adds some texture and dimension to your look – and if you’re in the market for a black iteration, choose one of our favourites here.

Corduroy-Trimmed Denim Jacket
RANDY'S GARMENTS Corduroy-Trimmed Denim Jacket
Credit: Mr Porter
Bleach Wash Selvedge Denim Five-Pocket Chore Jacket
Drake's Bleach Wash Selvedge Denim Five-Pocket Chore Jacket
Credit: Drake's
Denim Jacket
A.P.C Denim Jacket
Credit: Mr Porter

Roomy Overcoat

The overcoat is the perfect finish to a layered look, and it needn't be reserved for winter. Sure, a white tee, with a sleeveless knit and mid-wash jeans would look great under huge, raglan sleeve wool coat or classic trench. But you could sub that knit for a gilet or shirt, and swap the heavy outerwear for something similar in shape but slighter in volume.

Checked Cotton Coat
PIACENZA CASHMERE Checked Cotton Coat
Credit: Mr Porter
Installation Recycled-Ripstop Trench Coat
MFPEN Installation Recycled-Ripstop Trench Coat
Credit: Mr Porter
Phil Rallongé Cotton Coat
A.P.C. Phil Rallongé Cotton Coat
Credit: Mr Porter
Lettermark
Carmen Bellot
Style Editor

Carmen Bellot is the Style Editor of Esquire, writing on all things menswear and grooming.