1 | Everyone will be wearing Hawaiian shirts next summer
Defined by a spread collar, a short sleeve and a boxy cut; revere, camp or Cuban collared shirts may bring to mind Big Lebowski bowlers and ice cream parlour assistants, but that didn't stop the style sitting at the heart of many designers' Spring Summer '18 collections in Paris. At Louis Vuitton, creative director Kim Jones showed tissue-thin organza shirts printed with tropical patterns inspired by his trips to Hawaii. At Paul Smith, sunny palm print shirts, sweaters and field jackets were based on the Hawaiian shirts Sir Paul found in New York in the 70s. At Sandro, sleeves were short and prints were bright (it was all very Nicolas Cage in Raising Arizona, dodgy 'tache notwithstanding). Alexandre Mattiussi at AMI opted for an acid hued floral print for his camp collar shirts: the effect was nothing if not uplifting. It was at Cerruti 1881, however, that the trend distilled down to day-to-day wearability. Creative Director Jason Basmajian used graphic, art deco palm prints in muted shades on shirts, shorts and trenches for one of his most accomplished collections yet.
2 | Red is the colour
As definite a departure from navy, black and grey as it's possible to make, many of the designers spiced things up with bold shades of red for their spring summer '18 collections. At Hermes, the hue was called cinnamon and creative director Veronique Nichanian showed track pants, oversized sweaters and suits in it. At Dior Homme, creative director Kris Van Assche woke everyone up on the warm Saturday afternoon of his show by pairing classic black tailoring (a Dior Homme staple) with bold flashes of red in the form of baggy cargo pants, sweaters and sleeveless knits. At Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton showed a haemoglobin-hued leather trench coat cut with pin-point accuracy. If you plan on embracing the trend, make like McQueen and pick one bold item. Also remember that red looks great worn with shades of off-white, cream and caramel.
3 | Branding is as big as it was in Milan
If Vetements Collectives' recent collaborations with Tommy Hilfiger and Burberry (both of which featured sweaters, track pants and overcoats plastered with Hilfiger's flag and Burberry's checks respectively) are anything to go by, the appetite for heavily branded clothing shows no sign of abating. At Dior Homme, suits and jackets came furnished with tapes emblazoned with the address of the label's men's studio: 3 Rue de Marignan. At Wooyoungmi, skate shoes featured soles printed with the Korean label's logo. At Cerruti 1881, knitted sweatshirts were finished with spliced versions of the heritage Italian brand's moniker.
4 | Paul Smith nailed the perfect summer trouser
Finished with a single pleat, room in the seat and thigh, a high waist, a taper and a generous cuff, Paul Smith's navy blue seersucker trousers (pictured) were the pant of the spring summer '18 season. Get your order in now.
5 | You should be wearing your work shirt at the weekend
Your blue and white striped work shirt, to be specific. Suits may no longer be selling at the rate they once were, but oversized poplin business shirts were everywhere at the Paris shows. Worn with bleached jeans, tapered trackpants and oversized suit jackets, the best were at Loewe, Wooyoungmi and Louis Vuitton. Kim Jones cut his collarless for Vuitton and at Wooyoungmi they were worn with loosely knotted neck ties - which looked modern.
6 | The more trinkets the better
From perfectly polished carabiners attached to belts at Louis Vuitton, to doll hand medallions at Lanvin and hefty leather keyrings and miniature wicker baskets attached to trouser belt loops at Loewe, artfully considered miscellany was the thing at the Parisian shows. Unusually for Paris (a place where understatement is as sacrosanct as wine with dinner) right now more is more.
7 | Tunics are a thing...
There were very few brands in Paris that didn't show some form of long-line, Nehru-style shirt. From knee-length linen styles at Loewe, to poplin granddad tunics at Vuitton and thigh skimming cotton styles at Helbers, just looking at them was enough to cool us down in the Parisian heat. Wear yours with some perfect trousers from Paul Smith (see point 4) and some sandals from Berluti (see point 9).
8 | ...as are oversized trainers
The trend for aggressive sportswear and streetwear worn with classic tailoring shows no sign of stopping. The key piece to invest in for next summer? An oversized, stompy running shoe (which you definitely shouldn't do any running in). White, bright and not a little obnoxious (in a good way, obvs), the best could be found at Dior Homme, Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen.
9 | And sandals
Could it be that men's market is finally coming round to the sandal trend? A few dedicated designers have been pushing sandals for decades, but this season there wasn't one brand that didn't have a sandal in its collection. At Hermes and Berluti the look was chic in the extreme. Simple leather slides and sandals were worn with loose cut trousers and long, light overcoats. At Acne, rope style sandals looked ripe for a Grecian escape, while at McQueen and Louis Vuitton, chunky, oversized styles grabbed attention worn as they were respectively with tailoring and sportswear.
10 | Sports luxe is still going strong
When Heritage luxury brands such as Hermes start making clothes out of synthetic fabrics, you know that the sports luxe trend is sticking around. Paper-thin nylon bombers, track pants and windcheaters came printed with a tiny chevron pattern and looked modern teamed with Hermes' classic over-stitched tailored pieces. At Vuitton, ripstop track pants as thin as cling film looked camping trip-ready, while at Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche showed baseball jackets cut from nylon and pique polo shirts finished from the placket down with the vents of a tailored blazer. The easiest way into the trend this summer? Find a trackpant in a similar colour to your suit jacket and wear with a white granddad tunic and some boxfresh white sneakers (stompy ones, natch).
11 | Oversized suit jackets are back
It started at Balenciaga a few seasons back when creative director Demna Gvasalia showed Herman Munster-esque suit jackets teamed with wide legged trousers and sneakers. This season, however, the oversized tailoring look (which, for SS '18 has a distinct American Gigolo vibe) is looking a little more wearable. At Wooyoungmi, Mme Woo showed oversized single breasted jackets teamed with sweat pants, white socks and sneakers. At Dries van Noten, extra-long suit jackets were shown in softened Miami Vice shades of lemon and sage. It was at Cerruti 1881, however, that the look came into its own. Nino Cerruti was the master of slouchy tailoring in his day and for SS'18 creative director Jason Basmajian has reinterpreted his vision with aplomb. Suit jackets are just wide-enough in the shoulder and trousers are perfectly liquid (Basmajian's knitted sweatshirts were pretty good too).