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Big Coat Season is upon us. And that means it's high time to get in on one of the best winter coats for men.

That's no bad thing, of course. It's fun to shop for a winter coat. Not like denim, or hunting for the best men's underwear. Because a good winter coat – the flashy, versatile, punchy sort of coat – can really upgrade your outfit. Everyone likes a sharp coat. Better yet, everyone notices a sharp coat. And, while they may cost a little more than everything else in your wardrobe, you can nail the cost-per-wear ratio, and you'll continue to do so for a few winters to come.

"A good coat is the one thing that defines your whole winter look," says Carin Nakanishi, head of menswear brand and retailer, The Garbstore. "It's the piece that people see you in the most, your seasonal statement, so you’ve got to make it count."

You've also got a loose set of rules to follow. As summers get warmer, and winters get wilder, it needs to actually provide some protection against arctic winds. So either look for insulation, or something that can house many, many layers (heaven is: an overcoat atop a chore jacket atop one of the best white T-shirts). What's more, know that while your transitional jacket works well in autumn, and looks great year-round, it'll struggle to give you the plating you need. Don't moan that we didn't warn you when a nice, clean, sparse denim jacket gets you a nice Hinge photo and a case of hypothermia.

How Many Winter Coats Do I Need?

Nobody wants to go up a few shoe sizes on their carbon footprint. But a core selection of coats should cover all bases, allow for rotation, and prove suitable for different occasions.

winter coats
Getty Images

"Coats are a total weakness of mine and therefore it’s tricky to rate any one style above another,” says Damien Paul, head of menswear at Matches Fashion and self-confessed coataholic. “However, I do think the first thing you need to consider is your lifestyle and what part of that lifestyle the coat is for.”

Naturally, what’s right for one person isn’t right for all. But, generally speaking, Paul finds that the magic number is four.

“Firstly, a buttoned overcoat, either semi-structured or louche in wool or cashmere, is an elegant everyday option and works well both over suits and with a more relaxed day/evening look,” says Paul. “Another similarly versatile option is the peacoat; a double-breasted coat which was originally designed to be worn by naval officers. A design classic, it works for all ages and never really goes out of fashion.

“Third, I think a chic yet masculine option is a leather or suede shearling. If you get this one right it can last a lifetime, and will look better and more loved each winter.

The first thing you need to consider is your lifestyle and what part of that lifestyle the coat is for.

“And finally, and probably the most practical of them all, is a quality down coat in either a boxy, to-the-waist silhouette or an oversized parka shape.”

Which Is Better: Synthetic Insulation, Or Natural Down?

You've got two choices of insulating filling for your big, cosy technical coat or puffer jacket. There's down, which is the soft, fluffy little feathers from the belly of a duck or goose, and there's synthetic insulation, which is usually made from spun polyester. They both keep you warm the same way. The fibres trap small pockets of air which are heated when you put the coat on, and prevent you losing body heat.

Down is, traditionally, the better bet: it's incredibly light, durable and compressible, meaning you can squish your down into your bag repeatedly over the years and not worry about it , and warmer than most synthetic substitutes too. Millennia of evolution have gifted the duck and the goose with very, very, very cosy tummies. But on the other hand, the fact that down comes from animals makes it both more expensive and more ethically contentious.

Back in ye olden times, down was harvested by picking up little bits left behind on nests. It'd take ages to get enough for even a mitten, so the down industry uses down from animals raised for meat. You can find 'ethical down' which hasn't been plucked from live birds and that the birds the down is taken from haven't been force-fed to fatten up their livers to make foie gras – yum yum yum!! – and you can check if a supplier has signed up to the voluntary Responsible Down Standard code of practice which the industry worked out with animal welfare campaigners. That should add another layer of warm fuzzy feelings to the fuzzy warmness delivered by your big down coat.

What Do Waterproof Ratings Mean?

If you're investing in a decent quality technical rain jacket for the winter, you'll want to know that you're not going to be developing the tell-tale cold, soggy patches on your shoulders which give away the fact you've been sold a soggy pup.

The measurement of how waterproof your waterproof actually is usually comes in the form of IP ratings. IP stands for 'ingress protection', and the two numbers after that tell you how they stand up to solid particles and to water. On both scales, zero means pretty much no protection. For solid stuff the scale maxes at six, with each notch up telling you that smaller and smaller particles will be stopped; the waterproof rating goes up to nine. So, an IP56 rating means a good protection from fine dust and from heavy sprays of water.

There's a lot of technical stuff happening in the seven, eight and nine range for waterproofness, but for the purposes of going on a nice walk on a soggy day you'll probably not need more than a rating of six.

Other things to look out for to make sure you've got a solidly waterproof winter coat include seam sealing, which involves taping over sewn seams to stop water getting through the tiny holes made during construction, and DWR. That stands for durable water repellent, and it's an extra coating of protection on the outside of the jacket.

Those four classic coats we mentioned back there lay a solid foundation, but they’re by no means the only choices on the table. Here, we take a more detailed look at the winter warmers worthy of a spot in your wardrobe.

Technical Parka


winter coats
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As perhaps the singular meeting point of maraca-wielding Mancunians and weather-beaten polar explorers, the technical parka holds mass appeal.

Originally created by the Inuit people, the classic parka has been updated and teched out with features like high-fill-power down insulation and windproof fabric. The result is a functional coat that’s actually built for the travails of winter, and is best-paired with other similar workwear pieces: heavy denim, sturdy boots, big thick scarves and so on.

rains
Rains

SHOP

£115; rains.com

Rains
a grey jacket with white patches
Moncler Genius + Salehe Bembury
Mr Porter
a black sweater with a white collar
COS
COS

Peacoat


winter coats
Getty Images

We’ve stolen much menswear from the armed forces. But none are quite as ubiquitous as the peacoat.

Designed for sailors in the 1800s, this sharp double-breasted style is anchored in naval history but is equally suited to land-based activities these days. The name itself is taken from Dutch or West Frisian word pijjekker or pijjakker – a reference to the type of twilled blue woollen cloth that was traditionally used. Its short shape enabled sailors a proper range of movement, which they needed when it came to maintaining safe conditions on their ships.

A perfect everyday urban option, keep things traditional with navy wool and layer with other nautical favourites such as a heavy-gauge fisherman's knit, or a Breton top for an added touch of Gallic glow.

a black jacket with a button up shirt
Polo Ralph Lauren

SHOP

£949; selfridges.com

Selfridges
a grey jacket with buttons
Schott
Mr Porter
a black jacket with a white tag
Jaeger
Marks and Spencer

Puffer Jacket


winter coats
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Puffer jackets: the closest thing you’ll get to staying in bed (without looking like you’ve stayed in bed, obviously, because that would be depraved).

First pioneered when American outerwear legend Eddie Bauer nearly died from exposure on a fishing trip in 1936, the puffer jacket has since found its way onto the shoulders of everyone from hip-hop royalty to alpine enthusiasts.

The Puffer was especially big in the Nineties (both in terms of popularity and size), and in line with the Nineties trend, the puffer is big once again. The big names to consider are The North Face and Patagonia, but all the big sexy fashion brands make proper chunky puffers now, too. And of course, all the proper outdoor brands (66 North, Arc'Teryx, Snow Peak etc) are well worth consideration, too.

It's important to work out what you actually want your puffer jacket for. Is it going to be coat number one, or just a back up for when the cold really sets in? Does it need to be waterproof or windproof, and would you prefer it packed down into its own little pouch? Top of the line puffers run into the high hundreds and thousands of pounds, so make sure you don't over (or under) spend.

a blue jacket with a white background
The North Face
Mr Porter
shackleton puffer
Shackleton
Shackleton
a white jacket with a black zipper
Canada Goose
My Theresa

Varsity Jacket


luka sabbat varisty jacket
Luka Sabbat Varisty Jacket

From Micheal Jackson’s Thriller music video to Virgil Abloh’s final collection for Louis Vuitton, the varsity jacket (AKA the college jacket; AKA the letterman jacket; AKA the baseball jacket) has made an appearance at some of the most memorable cultural moments of the last few decades – a testament to the silhouette’s versatility, magnetism and timelessness. And as the future prep movement continues to determine the way we dress, the Havard-born layer is slowly but surely becoming one of the fundamental foundations of a future-proofed wardrobe.

Accordingly, there are bountiful options to choose from: collegiate button-ups crafted by the likes of Celine, Axel Arigato and Represent from every conceivable textile – wool, leather, suede, satin, cotton and velvet, to name a few — in any colour you want. Just make sure to circumvent blue and yellow combos, or else you risk being mistaken for a cheapskate getting their money’s worth from last year’s Archie Andrews Halloween costume. (Needless to say, stingy is never a good look.)

a black and yellow shirt
Baracuta
Mr Porter
celine varsity jacket
Celine
Celine varsity jacket
a red and white shirt
Represent
Represent

Wax Jacket


cumberbatch jacket
Getty

The Royal Marine of coats, and probably the most do-it-all piece of outerwear on this list. A good wax jacket will keep the elements at bay (within reason) and it's one of the most flattering coats a man can wear. Waxed cotton and canvas have been used to make foul weather gear for hundreds of years, and the kind we see on the rails today are not much different to those worn by sailors in the 16th Century.

The first brand that comes to mind when you think of wax jackets is, of course, Barbour. Founded in 1894, the South Shields-based company has been ever-present in British clothes manufacture, but it wasn't until 1980 that its flagship jacket, the Bedale, was released. The Bedale is the blueprint for a good wax jacket. Tough, adaptable and reminiscent of a life of adventure, they only get better with time, and if treated well, will last for decades.

The best news is that with the resurgence of preppy style, the classic countryside Barbour is having something of a renaissance (note the reason collaboration with Noa), but it's certainly not the only wax jacket option on the market.

a black jacket with a white background
Barbour
Barbour
a black jacket with yellow buttons
Belstaff
Selfridges
a green jacket with a brown collar
Drake's
Mr Porter

Duffle Coat


winter coats
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British weather is almost Dickensian in its depression. There are few upsides. But, it has afforded plenty of time to create sharp outwear, and few are sharper than the duffle coat.

The duffle is a classic piece of UK outerwear that, like many of the best coats, has its roots in the forces (thank you, lads). Its lengthy silhouette and thick fabrication made for standard issue in the British Navy of the late 19th century, but these days, they’ve enjoyed shore leave beyond a type-45 destroyer.

As much at home in the city as on the bridge of a frigate, the duffle coat's biggest strength is versatility: a smart-casual styling means you’ve a happy first mate to tailoring, jeans and everything in-between.

best men's duffle coat
Gloverall
Gloverall
a black jacket with a white belt
Burberry

SHOP

£1,490; harrods.com

Harrods
mackintosh duffle coat
Mackintosh
Mackintosh Duffle Coat

Bomber Jacket


winter coats
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The bomber jacket is yet another decorated military veteran, but this time from the skies.

Cropped, with a roomy body and knitted cuffs and hem, it was originally intended for use by pilots in the US Air Force, but it’s since been co-opted by streetwear, and high fashion, and normcore too, resulting in a brand new bona fide classic.

Its insulation and loose cut work well beyond the optics, too. It’s built for winter, and chilly breezes, and can prove to be a good layering slide-in. Opt for olive with mid-wash denim and white leather trainers for a failsafe casual look, or black with dark jeans and black boots for something a little smarter.

a green jacket with a white background
Golden Bear
Mr Porter
a black jacket with a zipper
NN07
Mr Porter
a green jacket with a zipper
Tom Ford
Mr Porter

Wool Overcoat


winter coats
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On the smarter end of the spectrum: the wool overcoat. Timeless, stylish and infinitely versatile, this longer-lined top protection is a natural at layering, and has an innate ability to smarten thanks to clean lines and a classic shape.

This is the sort of coat you can throw on without a second's thought, safe in the knowledge that it's going to bring the day's outfit together. Whether that's a three-piece suit or a hoodie and joggers is entirely up to you.

The classic menswear staple came to prominence in the late 18th century, worn by members of high society and military men alike and it only gained more popularity in the Regency era, especially amongst dandies. Fast forward a century, it became a favourite of the Teddy Boys and then the skinheads, and then, well... everyone.

Overcoats can also been worn slightly oversized (as long as the coat isn't dragging in puddles), which will allow for more layering in your fit beneath. Just don't overheat.

a black and white striped shirt
Kaptain Sunshine
Mr Porter
a black jacket with a white background
Arket
Arket
asket coat
Asket
Asket

Waterproof Shell Jacket


london, england march 16 timothee chalamet seen walking in notting hill on march 16, 2020 in london, england photo by neil mockfordgc images
Neil Mockford

You can’t be warm unless you’re dry. And you can’t be dry unless you’ve a technical waterproof jacket. Granted, it’s not the sort of go-to, front-of-mind winter protection. But it is seeing something of a return on the echoes of normcore.

Gore-Tex is the way to go in terms of fabric. As well as being widely regarded as the top-performing waterproof material, it's also having a bit of a moment with brands like Arc'teryx, Acronym and Nanamica going all geography teacher sensible. Wear it with cargos, trail runners and seasonally-appropriate headwear for the full look.

You may feel the shell jacket isn't warm enough for the chilly winters to come. Correct, the jacket's role is to keep you dry, not warm. Layer up underneath with a down-filled gilet and hoodie for warmth and the shell jacket will do the rest. Some outwear brands, like The Workers Club, have crafted a three-piece coat, gilet and bomber system for you to interchange depending on the weather outside.

best mens winter coats
Arc'teryx
Arc'teryx
a white coat with a hood
C.P. Company
End Clothing
best winter coats
And Wander
And Wander

Shearling Coat


winter coats
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Shearling coats were once as likely to be lined with gold watches as they were sheepskin. No longer. As a fabric that is costly (and luxurious), it’s an easy mould for designer brands to fill, and the template is also best-worn in winter.

It should come as no surprise that the shearling, too, has a strong military background – specifically in its association with American and British pilots during World War II. But the jacket is also synonymous with film icons like Alain Delon, Robert Redford and, of course, Steve McQueen –particularly the very, very nice piece in his 1962 film The War Lover.

Surprisingly, a shearling coat is pretty straightforward to style. You’ve enough texture and bulk on the top-half to go classic elsewhere, so think classic knitwear, trousers and some nice Seventies brogues to finish.

a brown leather bag
Mango
Mango
a brown shirt with a hole in it
Moncler
Mr Porter

Faux Fur Coat


paris, france   october 03 matthew kim aka bm or big matthew, wears a black shiny faux fur coat, a necklaces, a black and white striped top, black leather pants, black leather boots, outside ludovic de saint sernin, during paris fashion week   womenswear spring summer 2022, on october 03, 2021 in paris, france photo by edward berthelotgetty images
Edward Berthelot

For decades, rock, pop and rap stars – Jim Morrison, Justin Bieber, Cam’ron et al. – have been demonstrating faux fur’s faculty for adding a primitive dimension to your ‘fit. And now that almost all designers exclusively work with synthetic furs, there’s no reason why you can’t channel your Stone Age ancestors by rocking a hair, furry coat this winter.

Especially since the buzziest brands are currently in the business of putting novel, surprisingly approachable spins on faux fur layers. There’s Palm Angels’ pink coat palpably inspired by Y2K nostalgia, Marni’s fuzzy button-up that’s serving How The Grinch Who Stole Christmas!, Patta’s embellished faux fur coach jacket (one of the most sensible options around), just to name three. And if you’re hunting for something a little more traditional – something big, brown and animal-inspired – there are plenty of them too. Start by checking out Gant, Fendi and Oz-based unisex line Unreal Fur.

a black hat with a white background
Balenciaga
Mr Porter
a brown and black dress
Wacko Maria
Mr Porter
a black hoodie with a white tag on it
Saint Laurent
Mr Porter

Fleece Jacket


fleece jackets
Claudio Lavenia


Don’t underestimate the fleece jacket – incredibly lightweight it might be, but that doesn’t diminish the layer’s ability to act as a winter coat. Soft and fuzzy all over, it provides just as much mental comfort to a man navigating dark, frosty brumal days as it does physical, inciting the cosy mood the Scandinavians call hygge.

In addition to warming the body and soul, a fleece jacket will bag you some major style points. Especially if you opt for one brimming with character – something along the lines of Cherry LA’s racing-inspired fleece; or Rowing Blazers’ Harlequin sherpa jacket; or Kapital’s Java Kasuri zip-up.

But that’s not to say safe players can't make a fleece jacket their cold-weather go-to. In fact, some are so ordinary, they’re cool – according to the normcorers, at least. Discover such remarkably unremarkable winter wardrobe heroes over at Levi’s, Uniqlo, Cos and Columbia.

a black hoodie with a hood
Uniqlo
UNIQLO
a grey jacket with a zipper
Arket
Arket
a red and black sweater
YMC
Mr Porter

Trench Coat


los angeles, ca february 22 lakeith stanfield is seen on february 22, 2019 in los angeles, california photo by gotpapbauer griffingc images
gotpap/Bauer-Griffin

Ever since its inception, the trench coat has been recognised as a proper choice of layer by virtue of its Britishness. As, you see, the well-insulated, waterproof silhouette was originally produced by Burberry and Aquascutum for WW1 officers.

Thus, a trench coat is an absolute must for the traditional menswear buffs – those who understand formalwear as a form of manners and, therefore, wouldn’t be caught dead in a puffer. But that’s not to say one needs to be a suited-up businessman to get away with a trench, as contemporary tastemakers like Lakeith Stanfield and Billie Eilish rock theirs with sweatshirts, joggers and trainers.

winter coat
Mango
Mango
winter coat
Burberry
Burberry
a black dress shirt
A.P.C
Mr Porter

While we've you, why not check out our ultimate guide to leather jackets, or take your pick of the coolest clothes for men this week? We've got you covered on winter-ready knitwear too.

Lettermark
Carmen Bellot
Style Editor

Carmen Bellot is the Style Editor of Esquire, writing on all things menswear and grooming.

Lettermark
Joseph Furness
Assistant Editor

Joseph Furness is the Assistant Editor of Esquire, covering menswear and grooming. Joseph has previously written for the likes of British GQ, Mr Porter, Highsnobiety, Footwear News and Farfetch.