Written in collaboration with Burberry.
Back in February, when Christopher Bailey – Burberry's Chief Creative and Chief Executive Officer - announced plans to adopt a 'See Now Buy Now' concept for the brand, shock waves reverberated around the fashion world. For an industry entrenched in a cycle of long six month gaps between catwalk shows and final delivery of collections into store, was Burberry's announcement too ambitious? Could it really overhaul a system that had been in place for decades and was resistant to change?
For a brand that prides itself on being ahead of the curve – it started live streaming shows back in 2009 - Bailey's decision is revolutionary. By kick starting the trend for immediately shoppable merchandise - making the entire runway collection available to buy online and in-store on the day of the show – Bailey has turned the business model on its head and in the process has transformed the way consumers access fashion. After the hype of the show itself – the excitement of the red carpet, the front row, the musical performances – customers no longer have to wait six months to buy something that caught their eye just a few moments beforehand. Immediacy is key to re-connecting with a hyper-connected customer base and Burberry is leading the way.
1 | The Navy Peacoat
The short navy peacoat is the workhorse of the collection. Pair it with any of the more feminine pieces – even the ruffles and embellishment – and the look becomes immediately wearable. This wool cashmere version with neoprene bonded seams lends a sporty practical edge to a highly crafted, artisinal collection.
2 | The Oversize Sweater
Playing with proportion is a key trend of the September collection. Here, a classic sweater in brushed cashmere wool is cut high at the waist - artfully cropped to highlight design details beneath - and worn two sizes too big for layering purposes.
3 | The White Shirt
Virginia Woolf's novel Orlando – a satirical look at gender transformation in the Elizabethan era through to the 1920s – provided inspiration for Christopher Bailey who riffed on this theme of sexual duality by utilizing romantic ruffles around the collar and cuffs of this loose, semi transparent voile shirt.
4 | The Shearling Jacket
This jacket will make you look part Leonardo DiCaprio in The Aviator and part River Phoenix in My Own Private Idaho. It will get better with age. And it will keep you warm too. Quadruple tick.
5 | The Tailored Jacket
A pink jacket? Yup, that's right. Rose pink to be exact. And the velvet has been salt-washed to fade the shade and take the edge off. This soft, worn-out, vintage vibe is pure Woolf. Wear with pyjamas.
6 | The Pyjama Top
The pyjama top as daywear trend is less Hugh Hefner at the Playboy Mansion, more Ryan Gosling at the Cannes Film festival. – and you can't argue with that. A silk navy version - with a contrast piping detail – is also an acceptable evening wear alternative. Can be worn without a jacket too.
7 | The Wide Trouser
Banish those skinny pants to the back of the wardrobe. The softening and loosening of the male wardrobe is set to continue this winter with Bailey's romantic notion of acres of billowing fabric and easy comfort. These trousers are made from a sturdy carded wool but the double pleat widens the silhouette and sets the tone.
8 | The Army Jacket
Burberry's outerwear and military heritage means that army jackets are never far from Bailey's catwalks. This September is no exception. The latest incarnation is the field jacket – constructed from cotton ramie twill so durable even in the rain. From the front – a classic fit. And at the back? A sculpted curved hem that echoes the doublet shapes of the Elizabethan era.
9 | The Denim Shirt
Just when you thought there could be no more variations on the denim shirt – here's another. Raw denim. Wide stripes. Relaxed fit. You could say this interpretation is more jacket than shirt. So there you have it, folks: a Burberry shacket.
10 | The Bridle Bag
To celebrate the craftsmanship surrounding this collection, Burberry revealed a black and white portrait of the chief pattern maker for its latest bag: The Bridle. With inspiration taken from the British equestrian world, the new shape - in variations of tan leather and suede - is unisex and perfectly in sync with the gender neutral attitude of the entire September collection.