London Collections: Men

The Editors’ Pick Part One

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Esquire's round up of the highlights from LC:M. Want to know what you'll be wearing in A/W 2013? Read on...



1 Velvet jackets at Hackett

Hackett did what Hackett do best, with a sharply tailored collection focusing on louche yet razor-sharp eveningwear. Set in the vaulting environs of the crypt in St Paul's Cathedral, highlights of the show included soft tweed and flannel jackets with bottom heavy shawl lapels, velvet jackets in muted shades (the teal option was particularly strong) and a wide array of autumnal hued chinos. The secretary bird of fashion, Erin O'Connor walked the very talented Jeremy Hackett down the runway to take his bow.

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2 The rise of the galosh at Agi & Sam

An accomplished collection from the young British newcomers. The soundtrack was Vivaldi, the models were 'real' - one of which was a rather portly Bassett hound - and the theme was Clever Country. Highlights included slim fitting padded gilets over beautifully tailored patterned blazers and overcoats, slim mustard and claret chinos, clever tromp l'oeil jumpers made to look like buttonless jackets and countless SWIMS galoshes pinged over every pair of shoes. Practical and stylish - you can't say better than that.

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3 Topman's hiking gear

Always a London Collections highlight, Gordon Richardson's offering at Topman was his best of the past few seasons. A rainbow array of looks were on show, from oversized boiled wool peacoats teamed with chunky roll necks in taupe, to bright orange parkas and brick red short suits. The overiding theme however, could be defined as 'Sherpa'. Hefty walking boots, oversized backpacks and voluminous parkas featured in nearly every look.


4 The new minimalism at Richard Nicoll

What stood out about British designer Richard Nicolls' second menswear collection was not his use of bright acid blues, or his two piece navy leather suit, rather it was the bold simplicity of his looks. Few designers would be brave enough to send out a cable knit jumper teamed with some trousers and a pair of simple Converse Jack Purcell sneakers with no clever tricks to hide behind, but that's what Nicoll did - and it was good. Highlights include dip-dyed grey wool suits, fitted bomber jackets in abstract floral patterns and tiny burglar beanies popped on each of the models' heads.

Words by Teo van den Broeke

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