It's a fact that menswear trends, like fireworks, burn bright for an instant – capturing the imagination of all those caught in their glow – before, ultimately, descending to earth with a wet fizzle.
It's also true, however, that some trends extinguish more quickly than others. Here, to help you decide which you should eradicate from your wardrobe right now and those you should start investing in well in advance, is my guide to the trends going up and those down this spring summer season.
1 | High tech sandals
The biannual Prada show is a reliable barometer of the trends that will really take hold in the forthcoming season. For Spring Summer '17, Mrs Prada was all about the fashion boy scout, showing a collection defined by its nylon backpacks, Prada-branded carabiners and floppy orienteering-ready sun hats. The key piece from the show, however, was a pair of bright technical sandals. Worn with socks on the runway(don't even think about it), you should wear yours with a pair of slim trousers with very big turn-ups (see point four) and a pedicure. Other brands that produced noteworthy takes on the trend include Teva, Moncler Gamme Bleu and Givenchy.
2 | Kimonos
The wrap-around trend was in it nascent stages last winter and for Spring Summer '17 it's really taken hold. From wrap-around kimono style shirts worn beneath classic double breasted jackets – the likes of which can be found at Kilgour, Cos and The Kooples– to wrap around cardigans, coats and blazers found at Eidos, Haider Ackermann and British brand Tourne de Transmission, the best takes on the trend are easy to wear, great in the heat and perennially layerable.
3 | Biker jackets
You've got Alessandro Michele and his maximal collections for Gucci to thank for this one. Where Michele showed his biker jackets finished with delicate applique embroidery and worn over brightly coloured hoodies, at brands such as Brunello Cucinelli and Belstaff biker jackets were shown in muted shades, worn with jeans and sneakers. Ultimately, a biker jacket is a great transitional outer layer which is unlikely to ever go out of style. Buy one.
4 | Jeans with very big turn ups
First started by Jonathan Anderson at Loewe and given high fashion credence by Alessandro Michele at Gucci (him again), wide-ish jeans furnished with oversized ankle bearing turn-ups are big news for spring summer '17. Wear with some white leather sneakers from Tim Little or Superga and ensure your ankles are a generous shade of mahogany.
5 | Loafers with the backs stamped down
Loafers, mules and slippers are all over the shop for summer and they're easier to wear than ever –simply push the backs down, get rid of your socks and you're good to go. From Babouche style slippers from Maison Martin Margiela and The Kooples, to more classic soft-backed loafers at Gucci, Harrys of London and JM Weston, slide in and step soft.
1 | Super Skinny trousers
The demise of this particular trend has been on the cards for some time. Though paint-on skinny jeans might look great on rock stars that haven't eaten since 1983; on you, I, or anyone who indulges in a hot meal now and again, they look terrible. Opt instead for a tapered style with bit of room in the thigh or a straight leg with a turn up.
2 | Souvenir jackets
I love a silk souvenir jacket as much as the next man (the style is so named after the personalised bombers bought by American army GIs in the mid 20th century during tours of the Far East) but trend was overcooked for Spring Summer '16. Hide away in your wardrobe and save for a few years time – souvenir jackets are bound to come back into favour.
3 | Flesh coloured everything
In short, Yeezy has a lot to answer for. Worn by anyone who hasn't had a good stint in the sun, an abundance of flesh tone will make you look like an uncooked frankfurter straight out of the tin. If you do insist on a peach trouser suit or an elephant's breath romper, opt for one a few shades lighter or darker than your own skin and team with complimentary hues such as muted cobalt, charcoal or forest green.
4 | Wide bottom trousers
Though wider trousers are all the rage, the key to getting the look right is to ensure that the hems don't flap around in the wind. First, ensure the fabric is stiff enough that the trousers keep their shape. Second, opt for a style that tapers (even slightly) from the knee (this is far more flattering). And third, wear with very light footwear to increase the louche appeal and to diminish any orthopedic associations: some sandals for instance, or a thin-bottomed slipper.
5 | Ties
If the past few seasons are anything to go by, right now it's all about ditching the tie. That said, it's most definitely not about swapping your tie for a Wernham Hogg-ready open neck shirt situation, so, instead, team your suit with a kimono shirt (see above), a granddad collar shirt or a fine-gauge sweater and embrace the (most likely temporary) sense of freedom in style.