Esquire in Milan - Giorgio Armani

Despite the futuristically metallic fabrics found throughout Giorgio Armani's AW '11 collection, shown yesterday afternoon in Milan, there was something vaguely nostalgic about the tone of the monochromatic ensembles on display.

The wide, high waisted trousers and deconstructed tailoring, through which Armani made his name in the 80s, reapeared with a contemporary twist. Trousers came draped in heavy wools and jackets sported a softer shoulder than seen in previous collections.

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Interestingly, suits came paired with thick, relaxed button-collared shirts (more often than not devoid of a tie) alongside zip-fronted and button up roll necks in both leather and felt, grandad shirts and sheer crew neck jumpers. Padding was also key, with thick woolen bombers, great coats, duffles and quilted jackets paired with most looks. Suiting was heavy, drapey, relaxed and - above all - masculine.

The adaptable trend? You guessed it, velvet jackets were dotted throughout (buy one now). Trousers have been getting gradually looser across the catwalks, so prepare yourself for a return to wider-legged styles. Oh, and invest in a good waistcoat in a soft fabric. You'll be surprised by its adaptability.

Words by Teo van den Broeke

Armani Coats

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