London Collections: Men – Day One

The highlights from the first shows at this year's LC:M

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London Collections: Men is officially in business.

Esquire's fashion team report from the front lines of the most exciting few days in the man's fashion calender.

Here's the highlights from day one.

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Topman asked Lancashire poet John Cooper Clarke to pen a piece to accompany their A/W 14 show. Lines such as 'PVC with a careless drape' and 'return of the Pac A Mac in a semi see through shade of black' hinted at the content of the collection, which was as moody as a Lancashire sky in deepest January. Oversized overcoats and wide legged trousers came in heavy, light absorbing fabrics, punctuated with patches of high shine leather – not dissimilar to gaffer tape. Boots were weighty and buckled, knit wear was near exclusively roll-necked, while hues were monochromatic, peppered only with splashes of blood red and powder blue.

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Teo van den Broeke


There's something refreshingly contemporary about British designer Jonathan Saunders' every output. From the chequerboard pattern plastered across zip-up sports jackets, blazers and soft tees, to the tropical patterned strips of fabric contrasted with stripes of light-swallowing black, to swamp green on trousers and single breasted jackets. The key piece? One of the beautifully produced leather sleeved bombers.

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Teo van den Broeke

Drawing direct references to Sir Hardy Amies very own intimatable wardrobe showcased all the acute details we've come to expect from this Savile Row stalwart. What it lacked in historical fustiness it made up for in contemporary fabrics in rich chocolates, cool cobalt and a punchy orange. Breaking up the traditional suit into separates was a highlight. Using British woven checks, open weave hop sack unstructured double breasted jackets – yes they are still very much in for next season – were teamed with narrow cuffed trousers. Esquire's favourite was the cropped wool jacket with cosy sheepskin collar.

Gareth Scourfield


The all male trio of Craig Green, Bobby Abley and Alan Taylor that made up the MAN collective, gave us an insight as to why London continues to spearhead young creative talent. First up was Alan Taylor with his homage to Henri Matisse. Colourful painted panels were used across sober outerwear. A steady stream of marl grey wool tailored pieces that played with proportions, came with collage and applique details on the collars and lapels. Next up was Bobby Abley who wasn't afraid to show his sense of humour. The witty collection played up to Abley's childlike sensibility, although the sinister orthodontic open mouth pieces showed a darker side along with the Halloween themed brains, barbed wire and crow graphics. Finally, Craig Green, who last season made headline news with his wooden 'fence face' creations, concentrated on his strength of colour and pattern. Green was consistent with his oversized silhouette, switching from a flowing all black ensemble to colourful hand painted swirl prints that had more than a nod to the ceremonial uniforms of the samurai warriors, complete with skull caps to the wide rimmed coolie hats.

Gareth Scourfield



Having one of the worlds most enviable addresses, number 1 Savile Row, comes with certain expectations. Those expectations have been met and then some. Under the creative direction of Jason Basmajian, Gieves & Hawkes delivered a beautifully orchestrated collection for autumn 2014. Grey flannel three piece suits with slim cuffed trousers worn with tonal shirts & ties helped pull together the best fabric and subtle textures. 

Short zip black shearling jackets over deep ply cable knits showed how dressed down luxury should be done. Belted wool double breasted coats and a solid wave of outerwear & tailoring in Loden green captured this British brand at its very best. But it was the Evening wear that showed real gravitas. The Coral velvet shawl collar jacket worn with thick knitted wool demonstrated a real black tie alternative. Cue applause.

Gareth Scourfield

A rainbow of dusty shades for Richard Nicoll's best show to date. Trousers had felt somewhat neglected in past collections, but here tailoring was slick with sporty tapered shapes bolstered by leg length racing stripes. Shirting was strong, with close attention paid to placket detailing, while outerwear came immaculately cut with the stand out piece being a plum wool overcoat with a perfect raglan sleeve.

Teo van den Broeke