London Collections: Men – Day Three

Oliver Spencer, Tom Ford and Burberry feature in our picks from the final day

Most Popular

Heavyweights Paul Smith, Tom Ford and Burberry feature in our picks from the final day of a fantastic London Collections: Men.

This story will be update throughout the day.

Don't forget to check our pick of day one and day two.

***

Kicking off the first show on the last day of London Collections: Men were design duo Agi & Sam, who presented a strong collection that demonstrated how these new kids on the block are merging as a real creative talent with a sound commercial edge.

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

Against the hypnotic rhythm of a live band, African tribes was the theme. Sending out an all black model line-up only strengthened the message of what is arguably their best collection to-date.

Working on the idea of light and shade, large checkerboard prints in a monochromatic palette ran across boxy coats and double breasted jackets.

A focus on playing with proportions, which seems an emerging trend, appeared interesting, yet wearable. Hand-painted stripes on jackets and rolled trousers gave a nod back to tribal art.

Most Popular

These were worn over black zip nylon bomber jackets and crisp white virgin shirts, many sporting a priestly dog collar. Long line shirt jackets (‘the shacket’ in fashion speak) in lightweight silk and nylon peeped through double-breasted tailored outerwear.

 

 

A Persian carpet shop may sound like a strange environment for Paul Smith's AW'14 showcase, but he managed to make it work with typical flair. Hidden among the column-like rolled up carpets were the key pieces from Smith's second British Collection. Beautifully tailored with characteristic twists, key pieces included a degrade navy pinstripe, an oversized midnight blue check single breasted and a range of carpet covered moccasins, boots and lace-ups (now the venue makes sense).



It was a burst water pipe pre-show that got the fashion press jumping from their seats and got Oliver Spencer trending on Twitter before he got the chance to show his – erm – trends.

The unscheduled drama, which up until then had been severely lacking, preceded Spencer delivering a fine collection.

Drawing inspiration from the rich colour and texture of the British countryside, Spencer had rustic tweed overcoats thrown over sporty moss green nylon jackets. The donegal grey wool pleat trouser was consistent throughout, something other designers are also finding a natural affinity with.

Cameo appearances from ex Spandau Ballet band member Gary Kemp (sporting tartan trousers and a naval officers inspired coat) and ex-Blur member Alex James, who bought a naturally dishevelled style to his breton stripe top and nylon coat.

Luxe pieces came in the form of a neat camel shearling jacket and wool roll necks worked under everything from unstructured tailoring to waxed macs and jackets. This was a collection that felt easy to pull together and the burst of zingy orange and a splattering of floral pattern camouflage, were typically Spencer.


Perhaps surprisingly, for an autumn winter collection, the string vest was the lynch pin of Christopher Bailey's AW'14 offering at Burberry Prorsum. Teamed with everything from floaty light silk shirts, wispy scarves printed with London-inspired patterns, smoking jacket-esque trenches and school uniform style charcoal pleated trousers, this was a moody, more understated than usual collection with a very autumnal bent.

Key pieces include the carpet-style (a London Collections theme perhaps?) aztec print holdalls, oversized shearling and woolen overcoats (with rounded shoulders) and light, lengthy scarves printed with an oversized take on Burberry's classic check.



A sea of cobalt, azure, navy and midnight blue at the Anglo-Dutch brand’s AW ’14 presentation. If last season was all about taut, wide-shouldered tailoring, this is all about understated sportswear (and a natty fur trim). Slim-cut, wool bombers came complete with sumptuous inky blue fur collars, the woolen suits were relaxed and work-wear inspired, while shirts were textured and simple. The stand out piece? A powder blue wool parka with obligatory fur trim in a matching tone. Another reason to love it? Esquire's very own Fashion Director Catherine Hayward styled the show. No wonder it looked so good.