Milan Menswear Fashion Week: The Story So Far

Our pick from first day of Autumn / Winter collections in Milan

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Esquire is in Milan for Menswear Fashion Week.

Here is our pick of the best shows so far, with pictures.

This post will be updated throughout the day.

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A morning at the planetarium for Ermenegildo Zegna's AW'14 show. Former creative director of Yves Saint Laurent (as it was) Stefano Pilati's second collection for the tailoring powerhouse came set against the backdrop of specially produced scenes of the solar system – creating a contrastingly dramatic backdrop for what proved to be a relatively understated show. The collection itself was stronger than Pilati's first. Voluminous overcoats with raglan sleeves and drop shoulders were cut in satiny cashmeres, while deconstructed suiting came teamed with soft layers such as knitted shirts, roll necks and soft crew neck jumpers. The palette was muted, with charcoals, blacks and midnight blue dominating. In general, the look was considerably less trussed up than previous seasons. Ties were scarce, as were classic cutaway collar shirts. Tailoring was more relaxed and looked refreshingly comfortable, never a bad thing. The laid back vibe was affirmed by the footwear, with chunky biker boots, Chelsea boots and monkstraps accompanying pretty much every look.

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Teo van den Broeke


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A poster of John Varvatos' new campaign, featuring 70s rock monsters Kiss, dominated the entrance to the designer's show space. A taste of things to come, it would seem. The collection was a wash of monochrome, and the general look was evening wear with an edge. Black biker and aviator jackets in python and leather were teamed with black shirts, ties and blazers, adorned with grungy black leather embellishments. Brocade coats, single breasted jackets and fur top hats added a foppish edge while the white dress suits sent out at the finale played a suitable counterpoint to Kiss, in full make up, rocking down the runway with John Varvatos for his bow. A stand out.

Teo van den Broeke


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The one thing you can't accuse Donatella Versace of is inconsistency. Her latest collection for her eponymous brand, complete with quilted leather biker helmets, leather jackets (with more rhinestones than leather on show) and studded cowboy shirts, were as true to Versace's DNA as the Medusa's head. Loud, bold and irreverent, the collection was somewhere between Dirty Harry, Rebel Without A Clause and Behind The Candelabra. With a porn film or two thrown in for good measure. Biker boots and jackets came teamed with bejewelled sherif badge patches, appliqué denim jeans and, most impressively, several pairs of chocolate leather chaps. Oh and let's not forget the rhinestone cod pieces. This is a brand that knows what it does, and does it with feeling.

Teo van den Broeke


Tomas Maier's AW'4 collection for Bottega Veneta was all about comfort. It's a theme we've seen run through both Milan and London. Known for his softly softly approach, Maier forwent crisp edges and sartorial affectations in favour of simple, elegant shapes and tactile fabrics – which somehow made this collection seem very relevant indeed. Tapered jersey wool trousers came teamed with beautiful, voluminous over layers (most notably a rusty check single breasted coat worn with the collar up), tailoring was deconstructed and teamed with layers of tonal knitwear (the ink splashed pieces being worthy of particular note), while accessories came in the form of easy buckled chelsea boots and burglar beanies. The kind of stuff you'd want to wear around the house on a sunday (but could just as easily wear into work the next day).

Teo van den Broeke



After a summer of colourful sports inspired pieces, Ferragamo returned to more familiar territory with a collection for next autumn grounded in luxury separates. Using a well balanced colour palette of camels, bordeaux, bottle green and graphites, Giornetti captured the current trend for a softer layered look. The wool double breasted coats with Sante Fe inspired blanket stripes was a key piece. This Navajo stripe was a reference that ran throughout the show. Contrast colour panels were used throughout the collection, that gave the pieces its subtle texture. Soft shoulders on voluminous belted coats, worn over slim line knitwear & tapered pleat front trousers, revealing an elegant monk strap boot showed a strong and on-trend silhouette. Esquire highlights were the neat precision cut of a sheepskin bomber jacket and the styling of shorter jackets over longer knits.
 
Gareth Scourfield
 


The history of Norman’s Sicily was the inspiration behind Dolce & Gabbana's collection on Saturday. The designers sent out oversized boxy tunics & voluminous coats embellished with rich coloured stones & gems. If the Game Of Thrones wardrobe was to take a fashion hit,  then Jon Snow might see himself in an armoured studded sheepskin coat, complete with gold crown. The architecture of Norman Sicily was used in surface prints & embroidered over slim fit tailoring in grey wools with velvet lapels. The strong heraldic imagery across shirts, chunky knitwear & slim cut tailoring reinforced the historical references. This was a collection full of medieval pagentry that favoured the opulence of the Norman Kings with jewel encrusted sweeping coats & knitted chunky tunics at the forefront.

Gareth Scourfield
 

Miuccia Prada presented a pleasingly discordant collection for AW'14. The muted, autumnal colour palette of previous seasons was carried through in floaty single breasted overcoats, wide leg trousers complete with leg-length racer stripes and seventies-inspired shirts. Styling details included thin scarves wrapped high on the neck, left to drape lazily over shirts. The show came accompanied by a brass band who battled with gusto against a soundtrack of German death metal. A kind of stacked, futurist take on the running shoe in block shades could be found on every foot (expect to see plenty of those next winter) while the black nylon strait jackets and camera bags added to the dissonant tone.

 

Teo van den Broeke

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SEE ALSO:

London Collections Men: Day One
London Collections Men: Day Two
London Collections Men: Day Three
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