Paris Men's Fashion Week: The Highlights

Coverage and photos from our fashion editors at the shows

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Following a series of excellent shows and presentations at London Collections: Men, this week it's Paris' turn to display some of the best in established and emerging men's fashion. 

Impossible as it is to keep up with the massive itinerary and hectic pace, we've dispatched two of our fashion editors to keep you on top of the highlights. 

Here's the best of what's happened so far. 

 

1| Berluti

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The make shift blond wood doorways and benches that created part of the Berluti show space gave us a hint of where Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori found his inspiration for his autumn collection.

The Nordic pine, both raw and painted, gave the collection its colour – from camel, vicuna, violet and opal blue, to vermillion red.

The shapes were bold and the details were functional, with a real focus on heavily textured fabrics and voluminous shapes.

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Berluti flipped from narrow clean sharp tailored pieces – a highlight of which was a three piece suit. The oversized coat in double-faced cashmere played a central role to the show, demonstrating that luxurious fabrics are the foundations on which Berluti is built on.

Coats were cut generously wide and loose and tied at the waist, with cashmere knit buttons at the shoulder.

By Gareth Scourfield

 

2| Paul Smith

Sir Paul Smith took us  on a journey through the dusty desert, for his autumn collection.

Putting the ‘hip’ into ‘hippy’, it was full of layered prints, matched by a hint of rebellion. Accompanied by a Jim Morrison sound track, the models paraded in double breasted coats cut long and loose, some with eastern inspired prints, a theme that echoed on the runway covered in dozens of Persian rugs.

Traditional grey tailoring with a looser trouser were offered with sequined pumps  and musical note print shirts and knitwear.

‘The Doors’ influence came through in typically rock ‘n roll leopard print slim pants, sheepskin hooded tops and embroidered carpet bag style tunics, all worn with slim and cuffed suede and wool trousers.

The large Aztec print fringe scarves wrapped around the necks were the right accessory note for this nomadic inspired collection.

By Gareth Scourfield 


3| Dior Homme

Kris van Assche bucked the move toward more relaxed tailoring at Dior Homme.

Pin sharp pinstripe suits came teamed with slim camel overcoats, clever hunting jackets cut from fine suiting fabrics and embroidered polka dot trainers.

The black leather loafers and double monkstrap shoes were chunky (a continuing trend) with caterpillar tread soles, while overcoats were billowing, with parkas and great coats cut loose and drapey.

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In an unexpected turn, van Assche also presented a number of nineties-esque four button suits -  a move mirrored by Prada, Zegna and Saint Laurent - managing to make them look surprisingly elegant.

The key piece, however, was a beautifully cut charcoal suit embroidered with a Lily of the Valley motif, which matched the posies handed out to guests at the start of the show.

By Teo Van Den Broeke

4| Lanvin

A breath of fresh air at Lanvin, following a glut of rather dark presentations.

Taking place in the impressive surrounds of the École nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts on Paris' Left Bank, the show was punky, bright and fit-to-bursting with refreshingly wearable pieces.

Creative director Lucas Ossendrijver's familiarly sporty approach was present in spades: tracksuit-style belted mohair trousers were worn with cropped shearling bombers and leather pea coats, while almost every one of the whippet thin models came down the runway in a pair of
elastic-fastened sneakers in the season's key shades of claret and bottle green.

Suits were cut loose, while patterned shirts (one of which looked like it was covered with a send up of London's beleaguered Olympic logo) were clashing.

In the face of all this, however, Ossendrijver still managed to maintain a level of taste - even the striking combination of a bubble pink shirt with Miami-white suit somehow managed to look chic.

By Teo Van Den Broeke

5| Hermès

Discreet luxury probably best sums up the latest offering from French design house Hermes, but then this is probably something of a company strap line.

You know a brand is swelling with 'discreet' confidence when it sends out an entire collection of layers of dark tones. Looking for bold colours, graphic prints and ostentatious branding?

This had none of it.

The generous volumes of the outerwear and the soft tailoring that lay underneath was typically Hermes, where the real hero was all in the fabrics, working with matte (technical cashmere broadcloth) and shiny textures (hydro-rubberised lambskin) together.

Coats with low shoulders, straight coats with detachable belts, six button double breasted coats came in muted and sombre  colours from charcoal grey, black, brown, navy and khaki.

The outerwear proved to be the core of this autumn 2014 collection, with boxy multi-pocket blousons and wind breakers, in butter soft leathers contrasting with heavier wool short pea coats and multi pocket parkas, which have made somewhat of a recurrence on the European runways.

Hitting key trends helped give the collection relevance –  from the one pleat trousers to the zipped jogging pants with ribbed hems. Knitwear was strong with oversized pullovers, turtle-necks and generous raglan sleeve sweaters. 

By Gareth Scourfield

 

6| Louis Vuitton

An exemplar offering from Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton. The paint-splattered set in tropical shades made for a distinctly un-wintry backdrop, while the specially commissioned soundtrack had an upbeat Miami Beach vibe.

The collection – inspired by Jones' recent trip to Peru –  was an ode to improbably amazing fabrics.

From chinchilla-lined parkas in shades of plum and midnight blue, to double-faced vicuña (the fibres from the beard of a rare camel found in the Peruvian Andes) dressing-gown coats and sumptuous python cagoules, no expense was spared.

Double breasted degrade suits came teamed with open neck silk shirts, stretchy soft vests in cream and snazzy cycling glasses (perpetuating the growing 'suiting as sportswear' trend), while oversized alpaca overcoats invarying shades of grey affirmed next season's thing with voluminous outerwear.

 

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More In Fashion: 
London Collections: Men
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Milan Menswear Fashion Week 
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