London Collections: Men S/S '15 – Day Two Report

The verdict on Monday's biggest shows

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1 | Oliver Spencer 

Elegant fisherman was the vibe at Oliver Spencer's rip-roaring Spring Summer '15 show. Strolling out to the beat of a live drumming band, models looked laid back and chic in roomy raw linen trousers, buttoned up collarless smocks, tightly tied neck scarves and subtly patterned seersucker suits and bomber jackets. The palette was vintage Oliver Spencer: with warm, dusty shades of burnt orange, cornflower blue, moss green and soft pink dominating. Embracing World Cup fever, the show climaxed with several carnival dancers strutting their stuff on the runway. The man certainly knows how to put on a show.
– Teo van den Broeke 

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2 | Margaret Howell

Margaret Howell’s show combined her staples – grandad shirts, flappy grey trousers and navy sweaters – with some new touches: pistachio knitwear worn with sleeves rolled up, cream rainwear and outsize navy t-shirts. Cardigans were worn tucked into trousers and neck chiefs were tightly tied. In our opinion, one of her best collections in years.
– Johnny Davis 

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3 | Hackett

Hackett know how to put on a show: notable previous venues include Old Billingsgate Market and the crypt under St Paul's. Today was no disappointment – the Honourable Artillery Company was the setting for their S/S ’15 show. The theme was 'Gentleman Sport,’ and it all kicked off with a Riviera section featuring double-breasted white tailoring, navy blazers, seersucker jackets, navy crew-necks and tailored shorts. Next came summer tweeds and polo shirts matched with bold statement trousers in red, blue and green. Finally there was a cricket/ regatta section featuring harp Prince Of Wales check suits and more even dazzling white trousers. Well played, indeed.
– Johnny Davis 


4 | Jimmy Choo 

"With this collection I wanted to take the Jimmy Choo man on an adventure, out of Mayfair, out of his comfort zone, to a deeper, more soulful London," says Jimmy Choo Creative Director, Sandra Choi. Shown at the heart of London's historic County Hall, the brand's SS'15 collection was displayed by monochrome-attired models, all sporting shoes designed for a more adventurous wearer. Highlights included chunky flat form sandals in black rubber, crepe sole wallabies in caramel leather and lace-up crocodile boots in dusty pastel shades. Slip-on sneakers punctuated with tonal studs and the brocade slippers were also stand-outs.
– Teo van den Broeke 

5 | Richard James
Savile Row stalwart Richard James took us on a trip through the dusty arid sandy Sahara for his SS15 menswear show earlier today. Not literally of course. There has barely been enough time to recharge a phone between the frantic show schedule. A familiar palette of khaki, sand and olive coloured the crisp linens and fine cottons, cut in safari style jackets and slim cuffed ankle grazing trousers. Embroidered flowers spidered across the back and shoulders of his outerwear pieces. James reaffirmed his confidence using colour with burnt oranges, teal and cerise. The knotted neck ties under neat seersucker tailoring gave the collection it's British elegance.

6 | Alexander McQueen
Under the directorship of designer Sarah Burton, Alexander McQueen explored the possibilities of proportion – something of an emerging trend over the last 48 hours. Long line coats and elongated tailored jackets in bright white were struck with series of wave motifs in bright yellow, blue and red. Trousers switched from a narrow cuff style to longer wider versions that hid the McQueen white sports trainer that appeared throughout. Voluminous knee length shorts were worn with oversized shirts and shorter sporty bombers. The new wave print and panels played out throughout the collection on A-line coats, making S/S '15 softer and sportier than previous McQueen shows.

 

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