London Collections: Men S/S '15 – Day Three Report

Esquire's Fashion Editors give their verdict on the final day of shows 

Most Popular

1 | E. Tautz

'A Day Off' was the theme of the E.Tautz show that kicked off the third and final day of LC:M. For designer Patrick Grant that meant a sharp, mod-influenced collection that recalled the British seaside. With a palate of navy, white and khaki, this show was a confident, complete collection. Highlights included nylon parkas and double-breasted RAF blue Raincoats, while work shirts came with a navy and white butcher stripe. The label's heritage in outfitting 'hunting and military men'  (Winston Churchill was a customer) was evoked by field jackets in selvedge denim, bombers and crew neck sweaters, while sharply creased shorts in chalk-stripe mohair and selvedge denim covered a cool summer look.

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

- Johnny Davis

 

2 | Tom Ford

Tom Ford drew on his love of New Mexico for his Spring Summer '15 collection. Featuring the brand's first ever full denim range, Ford's new target customer is the casual shopper who 'likes to dress sexy at home'. The result? A rich symphony of perfect bum-cupping jeans, soft leather jackets, chunky cowboy and chukka boots and chocolate brown leather slides. Indigo sweatshirts designed to fade at the same rate as your jeans and sporty cashmere hoodies marked a distinct move away from Ford's tailoring focused approach - such a move away, in fact, that he only showed one suit in the thirty look show.

Most Popular

- Teo van den Broeke 

 

3 | Paul Smith

In anticipation of his Spring Summer '15 ready-to-wear show – which takes place in Paris on June 29 – Paul Smith presented his Spring Summer '15 shoe collection in London's Hauser & Wirth gallery this morning. Taking the classic Oxford as his starting point, Smith has re-imagined the staple in twenty bold shades. Manufactured in Italy, the super stream lined shoes come with varying toe-caps, some high-shine calf skin and others suede.

-Teo van den Broeke 

 

4 | Turnbull & Asser

Following on from the appointment of their new head of design, Dean Gomilsek-Cole, the venerable London shirt-makers reinvention continues apace. Showing for the first time during LC:M, the Jermyn Street institution unveiled a brand new Mayfair showroom. The light, wood-lined 5,400 square foot townhouse was the perfect place to show off a summery collection, big on slim-fit shirts in sun-faded primary colours. A double-breasted jacket made from British Empire-era khaki soldier’s fabric, never before used in a formal context, was a particular highlight.

- Johnny Davis

 

5 | Burberry

 

It doesn't get more British than Perks Field in Kensington Gardens, today's venue for Burberry. Set to emotionally charged live music from Benjamin Clementine, the show notes stated that Bailey looked to novelist and travel writer Bruce Chatwin for inspiration. Bailey is an exceptional storyteller: a skill he displayed through his use of colour in this strong collection. Hand painted illustrations and typography that ran across large bags, silk and cashmere scarves and oversized leather book jackets were inspired by vintage book covers. Rich colours, liek saffron yellow, aqua green and light copper, were worn in block outfits and all finished off with floppy felt, fedora style hats. The bold colours accentuated the fabric textures and weights from fine linens, rich velvets and denim, giving the collection its light and shade. Tailoring was slim and the tapered trousers were a particular flattering highlight. One of Bailey’s strongest collections in recent seasons.

- Gareth Scourfield

 

6 | Tiger of Sweden 

Famed for its particularly skinny block, frames were stillrakish, but trousers came cropped and slightly wider than expected. The one-and-a-half breasted jackets fitted perfectly, wrapping the body, while bomber jackets were teamed with perfectly cut shirts This combination of sporty pieces with more traditional tailoring was used to great effect. Suits came teamed with hiked up white socks and leather sneakers, while zip-up sports tops were pared with immaculately tailored overcoats. The majority of looks also came topped off with a simple black baseball cap. A strong offering from the Swedish tailoring brand, who's first London show was a highlight of the final day at LC:M.

-Teo van den Broeke 

 

7 | A Sauvage

A four-piece power outfit might be a first for the men's catwalk – or any catwalk. But there it was at A Sauvage: shirt, jacket, trousers and shoes all in the same print. Founded in 2010 by designer, director and photographer Adrian Sauvage the fashion house has acquired a reputation for bold designs and luxurious tailoring. Today's collection seemed to reference several British youth cults – particularly mods and rude boys – at once. Bold toned suits and a heavy olive leaf print provided the foundation to an edgy but still wearable collection, as the rebel spirit of British fashion was proved to be alive and well. The front row boasted a power trio of David Gandy, Tinie Tempah and Miles Kane, the latter rocking a matching A Sauvage jacket/shirt/tie combo in and black and green print. Also launching today was the designer's collaboration with Microsoft – trousers that charge your mobile phone wirelessly. We're living in the future, people.

***
MORE IN LC:M
LC:M – Day One Report
LC:M – Day Two Report
LC: M – Street Style Special 
***