15 Things We Learned From Men's Fashion Month

From London to Milan to Paris, the Esquire fashion team spent most of January dashing between runway shows, trying not to spill coffee on their jackets and – most importantly – noting the emerging style trends in menswear for the year ahead. Here are their findings

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1 | The designers have gone all tree-huggy. Countless shows focused on nature and had floors covered in compost and woodland-inspired sets, including Ermenegildo Zegna, Corneliani, John Varvatos and Moncler Gamme Bleu.
 

2 | Next winter's surprising essential purchase is a tabard, designed to be layered under your suit jacket. Look to Dior Homme, Dries, Acne and Kenzo for inspiration.


3 | Trousers are getting progressively baggier, and its looking more and more acceptable. Every single brand showed wider legged trousers, most notably Gucci, Lanvin, Bottega Veneta and Giorgio Armani.

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4 | Suits are out. Very few brands showed suiting looks. Vuitton showed one, Berluti showed next to none, Hermes showed three, Gucci showed separates, Etro focused on cuffed track pants and Bottega showed exclusively sports lux pieces.


5 | The seventies is the decade of 2015 – pussy bows were out in force at Gucci and Saint Laurent; while baggy trousers and tertiary, sepia shades could be seen in the collections of most other brands.

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6 | Fabric texture is the big story for next winter. Pulled wool, shaved alpaca, shearling, vincuna and cashmere was everywhere. Christopher Bailey at Burberry Prorsum and Oliver Spencer made these fabrics look grown up and wearable.


7 | Coach is the new brand to watch next season. The shearling coats from nascent creative director Stuart Vevers were second to none.


8 | If you are wearing a suit, the only one you should invest in is a grey prince of wales single breasted (seen at Hermes and Dior).


9 | The three or four button suit is back, à la 1992. Only to be worn if you're skinny as a rake and it's cut to fit. Prada's were the best.
 

10 | The one piece everyone should invest in next season is a shearling coat (see above). Oh and a thick over-shirt, otherwise known as a shacket. Louis Vuitton's were the best. Richard James had some nice ones, too.


11 | Men can finally wear fur freely – that is if collections by Paul Smith, Dries van Noten, Baartmans and Siegel, Burberry, Versace, Fendi and Hermes are anything to go by.


12 | The most decadently luxurious item we saw across the whole of fashion month was a pair of shaved mink tracksuit bottoms from Hermes. The same brand's crocodile sweatshirt came in a close second.
 

13 | The easiest styling tip to adopt that we're taking from men's fashion month is the bomber over blazer look, the staggered layers feel chic and insouciant. Very French.


14 | The only thing to get you through a Paris fashion week hangover is a croque monsieur from Café Flore.


15 | The new black? Grey.

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