London Collections: Men S/S '16 – Day Four Report

Our verdict on Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Burberry and more from the final day

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1 | Burberry (above)

There’s no doubt Christopher Bailey is an important man: first he was Chief Creative then he became the CEO and Chief Creative of Burberry, one of the world’s most valuable brands. But can he control the weather? You do start to wonder: every season the world’s fashion press and buyers troop over to Kensington Palace Gardens for the enormo-show, and every season the sun suddenly arrives from nowhere and beams down magnificently onto the catwalk.

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"Even without the fortuitous weather Burberry is arguably the event of LC:M: this year boasting the singer Rhodes backed by a 24-piece orchestra plus conductor, and picnic blankets (Burberry, naturally) and waiting staff serving champagne for afters.

"But what of the clothes? Suit jackets in a selection of bright Burberry colours were dressed down with tapered tracksuit bottoms. There were sheer vests and lace shirting: lace being a huge theme and applied to everything from tailoring to a reinterpretation of the classic Burberry trench. Elsewhere there were skinny mohair trousers, cropped wool jackets, summer scarves and sharp knits. Fantastic and luxurious, Christoffer Bailey had done it again. 

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2 | Paul Smith

 

Is it a bird? Is it a plane? No, it's #asuittotravelin! #takenbyPaul

A photo posted by Paul Smith (@paulsmithdesign) on

Ever the cycling enthusiast, Sir Paul Smith employed the awe-inspiring technical talents of world champion freestyle mountain biking Ben Savage to demonstrate the properties of their latest A Suit To Travel In.

A half lined version last season was impressive enough but this season, he showed a fully unlined super lightweight jacket made in collaboration with luxury Italian mill Loro Piana. The hi twist cloth was woven looser this time round to give what they describe as a 'dry, tropical handle'.

Balancing precariously on some hard wearing sculptural artworks at Hauser and Wirth on Savile Row, Savage put the suit's breathable and crease resistant properties to good use as he freestyled around the gallery to an amazed audience.

– Catherine Hayward

3 | E Tautz

There can’t be many fashion collections influenced by 1950s steel landmarks. But here was one. The Skylon was built in post-war London to commemorate The Festival Of Britain and hung 300 feet, apparently by magic, over The Thames. Its name combined that of plyon, sky and nylon – then a revolutionary and futuristic new material. As Patrick Grant’s notes for today’s collection noted, it embraced 'modernism, consumerism and optimism', looking forward to shake off austerity.

For spring / summer 2016 Grant showed a comprehensive collection of outwear (a luxurious cashmere safari jacket was a highlight), tailoring (chic navy/ white single breasted four-button jackets) and summer knits.

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Trousers came pleated and in the voluminous E Tautz style, but also in a variety of more accessible styles, too. There was more graphic geometry witnessed elsewhere on the catwalk this season, and some great rainwear – kagouls, raincoats and a standout cherry parka. This was one show where the pieces would have worked on their own as well as they did in a collection.

With Grant’s star still in the ascendancy – E Tautz is now stocked in almost 30 stores across three continents – presumably he won’t be falling for the joke that plagued both The Sklyon and the British economy of the time: that it had no visible means of support.

– Johnny Davis

4 | Tom Ford

Tom Ford put on a surprise show last night in his Sloane street store. The first time Ford has shown menswear in a runway format for over a decade, the show refocused on tailoring and evening wear, which the designer had moved away from in favour of denim and casual wear last season.

Though the slim cut jeans, sumptuous suede bombers and chunky bright knits remained, it was the close cut tuxedos, heavy bottomed shawl collar dinner jackets and super sharp three-piece suits which stole the show.

Decadent, sharp and a marked contrast to the unstructured, softly tailored mood of the moment, Ford has stuck with what he knows for spring summer '16 and his customers will thank him for it.

– Teo van den Broeke

5 | Jimmy Choo

The first few hours of Day four of LC:M are always a little bleary, so to be presented with such an awakening spectacle at the Jimmy Choo presentation was a welcome surprise.

The repurposed and amazing old Marylebone gymnasium was turned into a make shift skate park and filled with Team Extene skaters and BMXers. Each one was kitted out in Jimmy Choo footwear, demonstrating one of the inspirations behind the S/S '16 collection.

Abundant with colour, the sneaker collection was as boldly designed as we've come to expect from Jimmy Choo, but the shapes were perhaps a little more pared-back than previous seasons, which was good to see. The Collection of boxer boots, skate shoes, hi tops, leather pool slides and espadrille-ish hybrids was great, and pieces in the more formal end of the spectrum were equally as appealing.

A simple Derby is offered in a range of colours and materials, but the stand out pair has to be those in a sort of crumpled grey leather, which is also used in the extensive collection of bags.

Verdict: a few great shoes, and overall, more rounded than previous collections. What to buy: the simple white sneakers with a leopard print sole. You gotta love Jimmy.

– Charlie Teasdale

6 | Tiger Of Sweden

 

 

The SS16 Fashion Show. #LCM #tigerofsweden #ss16

A video posted by Tiger of Sweden Official (@tigerofswedenofficial) on

 

– Charlie Teasdale