The third and final instalment from our Milan round-up features some of the brightest, boldest collections of the season. From a pattern overdose at Etro, to 70s-inspired luxe at Gucci and hi-colour military pieces at Versace, this was a high-fashion free for all.
Though we're still taking stock, here are our first key tips for winter: invest in a straw-coloured roll-neck, buy an oversized greatcoat, stick to autumnal colours and fork out for a double breasted suit in grey flannel. Simple.
Frida Giannini has several signature themes. The first is a strong palette. This season’s array of bottle greens, deep burgundies and golds are stronger, but indisputably similar to the muted shades found on last season’s shirts and suits. The second is impeccable tailoring. Layered over knitted polo necks (a massive trend for next winter) and polka dot and paisley shirts, this season’s woolen, velvet and flannel jackets fit flawlessly and the cigarette trousers hug in all the right places.
Key Pieces: Many looks featured seventies-esque patterned neck scarves concealed beneath lapels - next season's essential purchase.
What Kean Etro doesn’t know about pattern isn’t worth knowing. Thus, given what a moment print is having right now, it stands to reason that his AW 12/13 collection is one of the strongest to date, featuring patterned punches of autumnal colour layered through in slim trousers, loose jumpers and poncho-esque, deconstructed jackets.
Key pieces: The black feather fedora (seriously)
The sportswear-inspired nineties trend continues with fluid, oversized over coats, four button jackets and hooded bombers at Z Zegna
Key pieces: The grey check jacket above, never has a four-button fitted so well
Shades of grey, double-breasted tailoring and understated flashes of pattern were the key themes at Canali. Woolen trench coats, harshly tailored suits and menacing leather gloves brought to mind Tinker, Tailor-inspired spy chic.
Key pieces: A super-sharp side parting and a pair of round, 30s esque specs like those sported by models in the show
From the contemporary, cut-out shapes to the monochrome palette and the MC Hammer-esque silhouettes (not to mention the just-pulled off eye masks) this was a creative, refreshing and wearable collection.
Key pieces: This black and cream wool and nylon bomber jacket, an inspired take on the wardrobe staple.
As expected, there was nothing understated about Versace’s AW 12/13 offering, despite the military theme. Featuring bright punches of block colour splashed over lightweight overcoats and weighty army boots teamed with pinstripe suits and hefty seventies-esque sheepskin coats - think chunky, bulky and, above all, bright.
Key pieces: The faux military broches and medals found on the lapels of many jackets and overcoats (a detail also seen at Prada. Trend?)
A very wearable, characteristically understated collection from Mr Armani, with the most interesting variation coming through in the form of contrasting fabrics and unusual textures. Black leather blazers were teamed with soft grey woolen suits while inky velvet jackets and ties came paired with billowing, tailored woolen trousers.
Key pieces: This cobalt blue overcoat, the perfect compliment to a deep navy suit
Diesel Black Gold
Diesel's high fashion line, Black Gold, showed in Milan for the first time this year and it was a confident outing. Featuring military inspired leather bomber jackets, pony skin peacoats and stretch velvet suits, the palette of aubergience, anthracite and tobacco the pieces were both wearable and adaptable.
Key pieces: the 5 pocket hand-crafted jeans made in Okayama and Tokyo
Words by Teo van den Broeke