Not for the faint of heart, or those with severe goniophobia (a fear of angles), Jeweler Hannah Martin's new collection is a geometric tour de force.
The ring, we concede, is perhaps even too avant garde for even those with more experimental tastes, nonetheless we're impressed with the elegant simplicity of Martin's collection.
Titled "the man who knew everything" - a chap who, according to legend, was unremarkable other than the fact he had good knowledge, and the bountiful jewels that adorned his person - the collection is worth the challenge, we think.
We caught up with Hannah to discuss her new collection, and learn a little about the woman behind the wares.
Esquire - How do you visualise the kind of man who would wear your jewellery?
Hannah Martin - Every collection I design has a different 'muse', I create a character and visualise them in the pieces. These go from skinny, pretty rock n' roll boys (think Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme) to weathered, sea-faring adventurers (Keith Richard, Vincent Gallo). In reality, the man I imagine wearing my pieces is someone who knows who they are. Somebody with a strong sense of self and a confidence in their own style, whatever that style may be.
ESQ - Where do you see those men wearing your jewellery to? Are they everyday pieces or more for dress?
HM - I like to think anywhere and everywhere. It upsets me when I hear a client say they only wear a piece on really special occasions. I'm a firm believer in wearing a mega piece of jewellery with jeans, when you go out for your coffee in the morning, for example. It should bring pleasure to your life, whatever the circumstance.
ESQ - Male jewellery is a bit of a contentious style subject, who else do you think gets it right.
HM -Yes, it is contentious. Lots of people do it VERY badly - it seems that most jewellery companies presume men want either big, heavy hells-angel skull rings, or jewellery that looks like pieces of a car. I've always felt that men deserve something with a little more integrity and style. I like very much what Tomasz Donocik does for men's jewellery, also Shaun Leane makes some beautiful men's pieces.
ESQ - What would be the ideal outfit to pair your jewellery with?
HM - Again, it's a tough one to answer. I like the idea that jewellery is part of the wearers identity, and extension of their style no matter what they are wearing. I love the idea that someone would just stick a few 18 carat gold pins through a battered leather jacket collar, or pair one of my top-end rings with a favourite pair of old jeans. However, I am also a very big fan of a razor sharp suit - which would equally work with some gold cufflinks and a statement signet ring.
