In France, the saying "ca coûte la peau des fesses" translates literally to "it costs the skin of your bottom". It's a phrase which often springs to mind when watching the menswear shows in Paris. In no other city are the clothes made so beautifully and at such expense: cut as they often are from pelts much softer than the anything you'd find on your deriere. Here, to help you get a sense of what the Parisians will be wearing next winter (and to give you a chance to get saving), is our round up of all the lessons we learned at Paris fashion week men's.
1 | Collaborations have never been cooler
In his five-and-a-bit years at the helm of the men's division of Louis Vuitton, British menswear wizard Kim Jones has made the French label cool in the extreme. For his latest trick, Jones has teamed up with cult New York street wear brand Supreme to produce a cherry red line of luggage and accessories (with a few denim shirts thrown in for good measure). Sure to sell out in the blink of an eye, pre-orders are being taken now. Top of our list? The Vuitton X Supreme backpack (backpacks are a thing for AW'17 too, don't you know).
2 | Next winter is all about looking like Lord Byron
There was romance a-plenty in Paris (naturellement), and nowhere more so than at Korean brand Wooyoungmi, where Madame Woo showed an intoxicating collection of modular shirts with ruffled details, velvet trousers and bomber jackets teamed with oversized regency-style greatcoats. Forget her, it's him who walks in beauty for AW'17.
3 | It's time to invest in a shearling
Shearling was everywhere in Paris (just as it was in London and Milan). For the best takes on the trend look to Coach – where bushy shearling jackets were oversized and poppy – Sandro, where classic styles in caramel and chocolate looked chic teamed with tailoring, and Dior Homme, where the overall effect was Cyberpunk takes Tokyo.
4 | Gender fluidity is still going strong
Nascent creative director Haider Ackermann showed his first ready-to-wear collection for Berluti in Paris on Friday, and it took the age old shoemaker's aesthetic in a new and energetic direction. Suits were cut slim and shown in sherbet hues, teamed with cowboy boots. The overall effect was very Keith Richards in Saint Germain. The androgynous rock star feel was bolstered by the presence of a series of slouchy women's looks which were shown alongside the men's, a first for the brand.
5 | Corduroy is as much of a trend in Paris as it is in Milan
We've said it once and we'll say it again, corduroy is huge news for AW'17/18. In Paris the best pieces were shown in the form of a blood-red suit at Dior Homme, a beautiful burgundy corduroy overcoat at Hermes and a series of pastel single-breasted suits at Berluti.
6 | No ties please
Ties were given the old heave- ho a good few seasons back by even the most traditional designers, and the trend shows no sign of abating. At Lanvin, the models wore futuristically structured suits with absolutely nothing underneath; while at Cerruti collarless shirts cut from the same fabric as the suits they were layered beneath had a louche, eighties feel.
7 | Wear your coat as a dressing gown
Pretty much as it says on the tin, this one. Oversized overcoats where shown at most brands, from Paul Smith to Wooyoungmi and from Hermes to Berluti. Our favourites, however, could be found at classic Italian brand Cerruti. Slouchy, belted and cut from sumptuous fabrics in bottle hues, these outerlayers will work just as well worn at home after a bath as they will on the way to work.
8 | We really want a velvet suit from Hermes
It's not unusual to leave an Hermes show coveting every extraordinarily expensive item of clothing presented within. This season, it was all about the misty-hued velvet suits in shades of spent charcoal and Beaujolais. Delicious.