In theory, Vietnamese coffee is all wrong. The best comes very strong, very thick and very sweet, in a glass, with a small steel filter on top. If you have it white, it comes with a slug of sweetened condensed milk at the bottom of the glass. When your coffee has filtered through, you give it all a stir. The best coffee brand is called “Weasel” and has a black stylised rodent on the packaging because it just happens to be fashioned from actual weasel turds. Yes, really.
Despite this, it is strangely addictive, possibly because you're in Vietnam where it's usually served in small cafes with a row of stainless steel collapsible tables and Seventies-style lounger chairs along the pavement. You sit, and you drink your coffee and you contemplate the industrious Vietnamese while you sit on your arse.
You can now get a sense of this experience at the rather more convenient CaPhe Viet Nam at Broadway Market in east London, where owners Rob Atthill and Tuyeng Hong have imported a café’s worth of Vietnamese café things, including Weasel coffee, the steel filters, the stainless steel deckchairs and the folding steel tables. 141c Benhill Rd, London SE5 7LZ, runs as a street café on Saturdays only at Broadway Market