Though planet menswear spins on a very slow axis – when a trend hits the runway it invariably takes a minimum of three seasons to be absorbed into the mainstream – sometimes a brand captures the mood of the moment with such sparkling clarity that even we men can buy in immediately.
For Spring / Summer ’15, we’ve pinpointed five such brands, all of which are doing exciting and innovative things.
From seventies-inspired, textured luxury at Loewe to perfectly proportioned minimalism at Matches’ new in-house brand Raey, menswear has never seemed more motivated.
1 | Loewe
Where once Spanish-based leather brand Loewe was best known for furnishing grand old Madrilenas with expensive handbags, under the aegis of new British creative director JW Anderson (whose eponymous label has been wowing the fashion pack for several years), the brand has taken on a fresh new identity. The menswear in particular has never been stronger. Highlights for Spring / Summer ’15 include chunky leather oxfords complete with Meccano-inspired leather cut-outs in primary colours, substantial leather ‘puzzle’ duffle bags in shades of caramel and second skin field jackets in (yep, you guessed it) eerily soft Napa leather. Anderson’s shift toward a loose yet structured silhouette feels exciting and modern, exemplified by cropped textured knits and wide cuffed trousers and jeans.
The key piece: Meccano Oxford by Loewe, £650, loewe.com
2 | Our Legacy
Swedish brand Our Legacy has done a very good job of keeping its light under a bushel for the past few years. Even when the brand (best known for its street-meets-smart menswear and clever use of fabric) opened its first UK flagship in Soho earlier this year, they didn’t really tell anyone about it, fearing over-exposure. Well, the cat’s out of the bag. This season’s zip-up overshirts in leather, cotton and denim are understated and modern, while the track pant inspired suit trousers are bang on the money. What’s more, for Spring / Summer ’15 the brand has just released it’s first line of sunglasses. Limited to three styles and coming in at just over £150, they’re well worth a look.
The key piece: Void shattered bronze sunglasses by Our Legacy, €180, ourlegacy.se
3 | 1205
Back in January at London Collections Men, Paula Gerbase, John Lobb’s new artistic director, unveiled her first collection for the Hermes-owned footwear brand. Understated, simple and uncompromisingly luxurious, the collection was one of the week’s highlights. What wasn’t on show, however, was Gerbase own label 1205. Trained on Savile Row, Gerbase’s minimal, fabric-focused approach to menswear is relevant, elegant and timeless. The palette is muted – dominated by whites, midnight blues and charcoals – fabrics inspired by her tailoring past, while shapes are structured yet comfortable with an impeccable cut.
The Key Piece: Gerbase’s shawl collared jackets are second to none, 1205.eu
4 | Raey
Where once high end retailer Matches’ domain was limited to a few key boutiques in London’s most affluent neighbourhoods, now exists a online empire which brings high fashion to a global audience. Known for buying into trends bravely and for stocking an incredibly wide range of brands, from Gieves and Hawkes to Craig Green, for Spring Summer ’15 the retailer has launched the first menswear collection from it’s nascent in-house brand Raey. Overseen by creative director Rachael Proud, the line focuses on minimal basics in muted shades. Team the crepe navy blouson with a pair of dove grey navy track pants and settle in for the weekend.
The Key Piece: Navy crepe blouson by Raey, £325, matchesfashion.com
5 | Frescobal Carioca
Founded in Rio di Janeiro, it stands to reason that Frescobal Carioca makes some of the best swimming shorts on the market. Cut from satisfyingly thick, quick-drying polyamide, the tailored shorts are perfect for a spot of on-sand peacocking – not least thanks to the super bright geometric patterns which adorn each pair. Once you’ve picked your favourite, invest in one of Frescobal’s bat and ball sets and boss the beach like a Brazilian.
The Key Piece: Tailored Noronha baby blue shorts by Frescobal Carioca, £150, frescobalcarioca.com