11 Key Trends To Come Out Of London Collections: Men

From light suede jackets to wide leg trousers, these are the LC:M trends that took our notice

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1 | The Return of Seersucker

The dimpled fabric is having a deserved renaissance at the moment, and LCM’s designers embraced it in their droves. It’s light and a bit billowy, and thanks to its lumpy nature, it absorbs light, making your ensemble appear a bit sleeker. Seriously. Its virtues were best championed by suiting at Hardy Amies (one of the stand-out shows of the weekend) and Aquascutum. Hardy Amies.com

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2 | Wide leg trousers

The most obvious trend of the weekend was a wide trouser. Legs have been expanding bit by bit for a fair few months now, but many houses clearly saw S/S '16 as the time to get rid of the slim or skinny leg altogether. And it wasn’t just the ‘high-fashion’ brands either. Right from the off, Topman did it (wider even than A/W '15…), followed by Margaret Howell, Dunhill and, most revelatory of all, Tiger of Sweden. Waistbands were much higher too, finally. tigerofsweden.com

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3 | Pleats

Where wider legs lead, pleats will follow, and we saw a lot of pleats over the weekend, many of which appearing on the same pair of trousers – Esquire’s fashion director Catherine Hayward tried in vain to count the number on a pair at Topman. This is one of the must-invest trends for next summer, but joyfully, if you’re feeling fashion-forward, you can nip out to any good menswear store right now and pick some up. topman.com


4 | The Fifties

If January’s A/W '15 shows had an overriding 1970s vibe, then S/S '16 was decidedly Fifties. Turnbull & Asser reintroduced a square-hemmed short-sleeve shape from the archives, Patrick Grant based his entire E. Tautz collection around the post-war decade, and Margaret Howell filled her runway with boys in big white shirts stuffed into high-waisted blue jeans. For a progressive take on the theme, check JW Anderson’s widened Cuban collars. etautz.com


5 | Light suede jackets


 
Last season, the gang of ambassadors that move from show to show were much more sharply pressed and buttoned up. And although the likes of David Gandy and Oliver Cheshire stepped out in a series of perfectly cut suits, the front row was generally much more casual than before. The common denominator? A light suede jacket, and they just in the audience. Burberry showed one or two particularly wonderful incarnations, and consult Esquire’s Instagram account for a beautiful cherry red version by Gieves & Hawkes. gievesandhawkes.com


6 | Bold colour and print

It might seem like quite a vague trend, but the shows were so awash with loud shades and patterns that they couldn’t be overlooked. Craig Green, for example, filled his incredible show with light, flowing fabrics in amazing greens, blues, yellows and oranges. Then at the other end of the Spectrum, Richard James’ models were shod in eye-wateringly loud two pieces (some with matching shirts and ties), and American brand Coach stuffed S/S '16 with psychedelic and animal prints. Even the heritage brands such as Thomas Pink got in on the act with their tattoo-inspired designs. 

Special mention has to go out to Bobby Abney for his Star Wars-inspired collection, and Kit Neale’s bold boiler suits were magnificent. richardjames.co.uk


7 | Loafers


 
Though we saw a fresh collection of hi-tops (Jimmy Choo) and summer boots (Grenson at Lou Dalton), the shoe of the weekend was the loafer. Burberry used them to great effect in its vast Hyde Park production, but Dunhill’s selection of British classics (tassel, kiltie and driver) was perhaps the best. They’ll no doubt come back around for S/S '17, but for now, ditch the lace-ups. You heard it here first. uk.burberry.com


8 | Thick horizontal stripes


Photo: hommemodel

Yes, Beetlejuice was seemingly the catalyst for a host of collections. McQueen had a few bits, most notably a black and white sweater, and Topman Design chimed in, as did Lou Dalton in her uber-summery orange and blue-coloured collection. Agi & Sam though, unsurprisingly, was where the horizontal stripe was most prominent. Sports-luxy pieces were twinned with soft textured overcoats, all of which featuring some form of stripe or another. agiandsam.com


9 | The dressing gown

Think less dad-just-out-the-shower and more ninja-relaxing-in-the-library. Think belted, lapelled drapy coats in light, flowing fabrics. McQueen did it (loudly), as did Agi & Sam, but the champion was Craig Green, whose selection of kimono-type looks had the giddy crowd spouting praise for hours, nay, days after the show was over. craig-green.com


10 | Kids at shows

 

Finally, the fashion world has caught up with the Stoke Newington set and realized that the ultimate fashion accessory is a beautiful toddler. The average age was severely lowered at Hardy Amies, Topman and Margaret Howell, and we even saw one desperate fashionista scrambling through the streets surrounding Victoria House shouting ‘I NEED A CHILD! I NEED A CHILD!’

(That didn’t happen. Or at least we didn’t see it happen.) houseofholland.co.uk


11 | Socks and sandals

 

Yep, the fashion world has finally imploded and models were sent trotting down the runway in sandals and socks. Provincial vicars up and down the land are jumping for joy. However, if you pick the right sock and the right sandal, it can work. For tips, consult Margaret Howell, Tourne de Transmission and James Long. margarethowell.co.uk

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