If he’s very lucky, an Englishman will reach his 30s with the great cities of Europe conquered.
He’ll have stood in the Colosseum of Rome pretending to be an Emperor. He’ll have wandered the street of Paris fancying himself a poet. He’ll have drank his fill in Dublin, got high in Amsterdam and walked in Berlin feeling the ache of history in his thighs.
With all that done, he might consider himself more or less finished with his home continent. And of course, as with so many other things in life, he’d be wrong.
Over the past ten years, Europe’s smaller powers have increasingly staked their claim as essential tourist destinations. Today, cities in Croatia, Portugal and the Czech Republic rightly recognised for being as culturally rich, historically fascinating and ideal for a jolly as those in France, Germany or Italy.
The latest to catch on among Britain’s hip young wanderers is undoubtedly Slovenia, whose azure lakes and dew-dusted mountains have begun to pop up on Instagram with the regularity of Lisbon’s trams of Dubrovnik’s crumbling city walls. The Balkan country, nestled in the elbow of the Adriatic Sea, has a huge amount to offer whether you’re seeking nature or luxury - or in our preferred case, both.
Ljubljana
Your first port of call should of course be the capital, Ljubljana. The tenth smallest capital city in Europe with a population of around 280,000, in 2007 Ljubljana underwent ‘the great pedestrianisation’ (our name for it) which saved its old town from pollution and planted the seed for being named Europe’s Green Captital nine years later in 2016.
Walking along Ljubljanica, the river along which most of the city’s opportunities for revelry is based, it’s not hard to see why it was awarded this accolade. ‘Clean and green’ is the term that springs to mind. Like many a fine city, Ljubljana makes much of its unique bridges, which allow you to crisscross around the city at leisure.
One tip, though. Away from the river to the North is Metelkova City, an area that describes itself as the “autonomous social and cultural centre of Ljubljana”. There, the city’s artistic community has taken over a former Communist prison and stayed put since 1993. For something a little different, head there on Friday or Saturday evening for a beer (it also contains the only gay club in town), or just enjoy take a stroll by day to enjoy the amazing street art.
Where to stay and eat
For a 5 star experience in the best possible location, look no further than the InterContinental Hotel Ljubljana. Not only are the rooms as well appointed as you’d expect, but it has two other key advantages: the 18th-floor Saruna Wellness spa, where you can swim before a majestic view of the Alps, and the B Resturant / Bar with a rooftop terrace. The food is excellent, and staff will make your stay one to remember.
It’s written in English law somewhere that you can’t go anywhere with a castle and not visit the damn thing, lest you be beheaded on your return home. Ljublijana is no different: in fact, it’s one the finest castle in Europe, perched up a giant hill like something from a legend. There, you’ll find Restaurant Strelec and some of the finest dining in the city, a perfect introduction to Slovenian cuisine which is both incredibly varied and deeply satisfying, from sauerkraut soup to Idrija žlikrofi dumplings or Primorje squid and roasted sardines. The fact you can enjoy it all in a King’s fortress is merely a bonus.
Lake Bled
The aforementioned Instagram favourite is a simple train journey away from Ljublijana - don’t be fooled by the coach companies, rail is the way to go for the views along - and an absolute must-visit for anyone in Slovenia.
Set against a backdrop of imperious mountains, Bled is around seven thousand feet of perfect turquoise waters that can be swam in, rowed on or just admired from any number of beaches, wooden jetties or tree-lined vantage points dotted around the perimeter. Absurdly, there is a small island in the middle with a picturesque Baroque church that dates back to 1655. You’ll gawp almost as much as you snap away on your phone.
Where to stay and eat
The Grand Hotel Toplice Lake Bled is, as the name suggests, a grand affair with a dining room and lounge dripping in old school glamour. The town of Bled has no shortage of hotels but if you want a little luxury, this is the only game in town, its answer to the Ritz or the Savoy. The restaurant is excellent, while the real plus is the private swimming area with boats to take out onto the water at your leisure.
Just outside the hotel, around the corner and under a wooden canopy, is Caffe Peglez'n (no website). It’s the kind of ramshackle, loved in place you can tell is wonderful from first sight. Treat yourself to a platter of seafood or a simple pasta dish of exquisite quality.
All in all, Slovenia's unique natural beauty, charming cities and burgeoning luxury scene make it hard to beat for a weekend break in Europe. Get out there before everyone catches on. You'll be glad you picked it over that trip to Milan after all.
For further information on Slovenia visit slovenia.info/en. Wizz Air flies to Ljubljana from Luton four times a week on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. Fares start at £20.99 one way: wizzair.com
