1 | Potted Shrimp Crumpet @ Cornerstone
You won’t have to make too many agonising food choices at Tom Brown’s Cornerstone in Hackney Wick, as they recommend that you order around eight of the modestly sized dishes – all meant for sharing, naturally – for a table of two. To be honest, that’s quite punchy, so six or seven (including dessert) would do. But the bonus is that you don’t have to whittle down your choices much on a menu that you will crave all of.
Options change regularly but, if you can, start off with a pickled oyster for a wave of tart vinegar balanced by vibrantly green celery and dill. It’s over in a second, of course, but an enlivening prelude to velvety mackerel pate with treacle bread, sturdy salt-baked celeriac with cod’s roe and an inspired sprinkling of hazelnuts (like a steaming baked potato but better), a buttery crumpet topped with potted shrimp, shredded kohlrabi and gherkin, and fillet of plaice atop a buttery roast chicken sauce-cum-gravy that magically tastes of parmesan (may cause an undignified desire to lick the bowl clean).
You also get to watch and listen to the chefs at work in the open oval kitchen that forms the centre of the bare brick room, providing a soothing hum in the background. The balance of flavours on display is masterful and you’ll feel like you’ve been fine dining, but in a warehouse.
3 Prince Edward Road, London, E9 5LX; cornerstonehackney.com
2 | Late Night Cichèti @ Polpo
Everyone’s favourite Venetian restaurants, Polpo, have teamed up with Sipsmith gin to see in September in style. From Monday, a special cocktail menu will be on the go in every branch, including a Sipsmith Negroni and, our pick, the Sipsmith Sloe Amaretto Sour (sloe gin, amaretto, lemon and egg white). What’s really tickling our fancy, though, is the promise of free cichèti if you order two of said cocktails post-9pm. It’s like they read our minds. So expect those irresistible arancini balls with ‘nudja and mozzarella or pea and basil, or focaccia, or fried olives stuffed with anchovies.
In addition, the Notting Hill branch will have a pop-up bar festooned in greenery inspired by the gin’s botanicals (juniper, Seville oranges, lemons, coriander, etc.). Amid this ‘floral and botanical installation’ will be Sipsmith staff on-hand to teach you everything you could want to know about the spirit. And you’ll never be too far away from those arancini, either…
Until the end of October.
Various locations; polpo.co.uk
3 | A Korean Feast @ Galvin at Windows
The Michelin-starred Galvin at Windows boasts one of the prime views in London, sitting up on the 28th floor of the Hilton on Park Lane. It’s an odd corner of town, granted, with big hotels and flashy cars every way you look, but get yourself up into the restaurant for sunset and you’ll be blown away by the expanse of sky wrapped all around the restaurant. And until the end of September, you can sample head chef Joo Won’s special Korean tasting menu, in preparation for which he travelled to his home country of South Korea with owner Chris Galvin and maître d’ (of First Dates fame) Fred Sirieix. The result is his special seven-course feast, which he has paired not just with wines, but soju cocktails and traditional rice beer (watch out for that one – it looks like milk but comes in at 7% ABV). It’s a bit of a blow-out option but with such dreamy service and such a remarkable setting, it’s worth booking for your next treat.
Each and every dish is characteristically refined (delicate, smart, beautifully pitched flavours) but you’ll get far more surprises than usual, as little elements are thrown in just to lift the palette and gently raise an eyebrow or two in pleasure. Raw kingfish with kohlrabi and cucumber has a warm sesame and chilli sauce underneath it that is thin but mighty; lobster tails are coated in a fiendishly light batter and deep fried, with a hot soybean stew; and hake is baked with a Comté cheese crust and placed on a salty and sour and delicious bed of cabbage with chunks of Iberico pork. Sounds like it shouldn’t work, but – trust us – you won’t be able to forget it.
Until the end of September
22 Park Lane, London, W1K 1BE; galvinatwindows.com
4 | Artisanal Snacks @ The Floating Market
Head to the canal at Paddington Central, where a floating market is now in action until Sunday. A veritable fleet of artisanal barges and market stalls are selling food and drink from local companies such as Local Honey Man (more flavours of raw honey than you could imagine), Crazy Dave’s Cider (award-winning) and Woza Biltong (the king of snacks). There is also fresh bread, cheese, fruit and veg, cakes, olives – you name it.
Floating restaurant The London Shell Co. have a pop-up bar serving English sparkling wine, and the land-based restaurants are also venturing outside to offer samples (Tossed, Smith's Bar & Grill, Lords of Poke, etc.). The sun has promised to shine, so what could be better than some chilled waterside grazing?
Until Sunday 3 September, 11am – 7pm
Sheldon Square, London, W2 6PY; paddingtoncentral.com
5 | Game Samosas @ 45 Jermyn St.
Roll up, roll up. It’s game season, don’t you know. And that means a host of mouth-watering dishes appearing on menus across the city. Our top tip is 45 Jermyn St., where you know you’ll be in safe hands. Expect a multi-layered grouse pie with foie gras and chutney, and the traditional roasted grouse served, mercifully, with game chips, a boat of bread sauce and your own personal pot of oozingly rich game cottage pie. But that’s not all.
They are also doing an Indian-inspired dish featuring a great big game samosa, which is crispy on the outside and heartening within, and grouse rubbed with a tikka paste, served with red lentils, cooling yoghurt, and topped with puffed rice and pomegranate for extra bite. Nestled behind Fortnum & Mason, you go here for smart St James’s dining, yes, but for a sense of homeliness too thanks to the orange décor, glowing lights and charming people. So make this most of this limited edition menu while you can.
Until mid-October
45 Jermyn St., London, SW1 6DN; 45jermynst.com
