The Loudest, Boldest And Best Suits From Milan
The shows may be over, but the showman tailoring lives on
Italian fashion is by no means shy. That's essentially the point: bold and bright menswear best-paired with nicotine, lots of air miles and a deep mahogany tan. If it worked for Gianni Versace, it'll work for you.
And thus the trend swelled. For several seasons, showboating suits from the likes of Dior and Gucci set a precedent: bigger is better. That meant big lapels, big details, big, big moods. The laws of fashion's ever-hastening carousel would tell us, then, that suiting was destined for reservations in the quiet carriage. What goes up must come down, and all that business.
But the laws have proven false. Suits haven't calmed. On the contrary, Milan SS20 taught us that tailoring is louder, bolder and brasher than ever - and here are the best in class.
Missoni
Though famed for vibrant knitwear, Missoni pours the same allegiance to colour in its tailoring output. That means merlot gradient two-pieces, looser fits and several drops of rosé and pinot noirs too. We'll drink to that.
Gucci
The clinical production line setting of Gucci's SS20 show seemed deeply uncharacteristic of Alessandro Michele. And yet, upon a procession of punchy looks, it made sense. This was textbook Michele-driven Wes Anderson regalia on full display, just more precise, sharper, more structure to the flares and cropped blazers and peak lapels. See this fire engine two-piece for further details.
Bottega Veneta
Yes, short suits so often point to hockey sticks and class(room) warfare. But in the fluid hands of Bottega Veneta's creative director Daniel Lee, the schoolboy special goes Eighties Cushelle in cerulean shades, a wider fit, and one that is undeniably comfortable.
Salvatore Ferragamo
No, leather trousers needn't look to the inexplicable renaissance of all things The Matrix. Instead, Salvatore Ferragamo warmed up the colour wheel, and then safely countered with similarly-coloured blazers up-top.
Boss
Yellow is no longer mellow. Thanks to Boss, lemon shades have enjoyed a newfound zest when in fully-suited, tonal, lovely form.
Fila
You didn't think Fila did things like suits, did you? Well, neither did we. But for SS20, the Italian sports label went for some polish (and plenty of interlocking F logo prints).
Emporio Armani
Rather than settle for retina-scorch tones or abstract fits, Giorgio Armani let fabric make the noise at the Emporio show. Which, in this instance, meant a silk-like construction of wearable, wider shapes.
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