It's fair to say that 2022 was not a vintage year for our news feeds. Elon Musk bought and immediately destroyed Twitter. Matt Hancock swapped the backbenches for Bushtucker Trials. Generation Z discovered that celebrity children – AKA Nepo Babies – are unlikely to have a LinkedIn Premium subscription. The UK had three prime ministers in the space of two months! But, subverting fashion’s remit of reflecting the wider culture it sits in, the clothes released over the past twelve months have been surprisingly… fun. The catwalks were as vibrant as the news stories were grim, with no rainbow hue left untouched. This was the year where menswear fell in love with colour.
Cast your mind back to spring/summer ’22. The random spurts of 40-degree weather were made a little more bearable by the colourful clothes on offer from Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Etro, Fendi and Qasimi; a fruit salad assortment that brought a sweet flavour to everyone’s palate. Even when the weather got colder, brands kept their collections just as saturated. Pink was popping at Prada, Casablanca, Ami, Paul Smith and Versace’s autumn/winter ’22 shows, ranging from Jay Gatsby-approved baby shade to a hotter than hot hue straight out of a highlighter pack. And the momentum keeps going with spring/summer ’23; expect a hodgepodge of tie-dye, neon and block colours to be stocking the rails of your favourite retailer oh so soon.
Traditionally, colour has been excluded from the working wardrobe, with neutrals and subtle prints ubiquitously dominating tailoring attire. Even for out-of-hours occasions, minimalism trumped over maximalism as the ‘less is more’ aesthetic reigned supreme over every design-centred facet – you can thank John Pawson and Jil Sander for that. But it seems times are changing. “Demand for statement pieces, whether it be colour, shape or fabrication, has really increased over the last year or so,” says Thom Scherdel, Browns’ Menswear Category Manager, and continues to note that when it comes to colour, men are looking to what’s happening on the catwalk. “While black, navy and grey will always be a classic foundation to most everyday outfits, the menswear space is evolving. As more designers express themselves with colour, we’ve noticed our customer is looking to experiment and lift their mood with refreshing new shades.”
As Scherdel points out, there’s a correlation between colour and cheeriness – and it entered the chat last year as ‘dopamine dressing’. Without lockdown limiting styling possibilities to the torso and above, adventurous outfits started to emerge and the term was brought into the limelight. First coined by Dr Dawn Karen in her book Dress Your Best Life, her research found that if we dress in the colours we have positive associations with, our moods will improve. Love red because it’s your football team’s colour? Inject it into your wardrobe to bring you joy – and the more of it you wear, the more it might equal the bliss of actually winning something.
As expected from a trend that is meant to catch your eye – some hues so bright they require an optical disclaimer – street style was awash with it. But has it infiltrated the wardrobe of those who aren’t regularly papped outside show venues? Well, it’s easier said than done. It’s one thing to see a full chartreuse ensemble on a 6ft4 model and think you can pull it off, but it’s a whole other scenario trying to style it in a way that doesn’t look like reflective cycling gear. Alternatively, if you enjoy peddling away at two wheels, that may be the perfect hue to start with. Don’t let the fact the trend comes with a ‘handle with caution’ disclaimer scare you off; it’s as subjective as your coffee order and relies on personal connection. The more aligned to you, the better.
“Colour can breathe fresh air into your life, it puts energy into your mood and can give you confidence to walk into any situation and feel uplifted,” says Foday Dumbuya, founder of Labrum. His wardrobe may reflect Picasso’s paint palette, but the London-based designer’s outfits are inherently personalised to him; mixing smart silhouettes with sizzling shades. “My style is more about heritage, I’m inspired by my West African roots and the colours that ignites energy, fun, vibrancy. I try to fuse that with traditional silhouettes, mixing with traditional British tailoring. I cultivate looks for years, I tend to avoid fashion trends and just create styles which are heavily influenced by my parents.”
During the colder months, Scherdel points out that a cosy cardy or jumper is a great way of infusing some colour into a season that is usually lacking in it. “Knitwear has always been a great category for colour exploration due to the nature of the dying,” he explains. “We have quite a few brands that do this so well. From more established brands like The Elder Statesman and Bode,” – the uniform of the tie-dye-wearing Hollywood inhabitant – “to our newer Next Gen brands Namacheko, Anderson Bell and ERL.” The latter group fall into a more wallet-friendly price bracket, but the brands’ allegiance on Tik Tok is an indicator of their customers' age range. As you’re already delving into the deep end, a fail-safe that still feels current comes from Paul Smith’s collaboration with Ahluwalia. Debuting last year, the two generations of designers combined their shared love of prints and pigments to create a 14-piece capsule. And if you just want to dip your toe in with bold hats, scarves and socks, opt for Liberal Youth Ministry, Story MFG and Marni for their bright accessories.
A few weeks into a new year that doesn’t feel particularly happy, even after passing the ‘Blue Monday’ marker, a fresh approach to dressing may feel unnatural, but Dumbuya’s advice faces it head on. “Don’t be afraid to express yourself and be yourself… Wear what makes you feel good.” It’s not likely that news notifications or tele broadcasts are going to be more upbeat, but a healthy dose of your favourite colour may be what turns that frown upside down.
