We're in the thick of wedding season, but something's... different this time around. A gatecrasher is on the loose, making surprise appearances at country estates, boho barns and registry offices across the land. You've probably seen this interloper weaving and wriggling their way through the crowds, trampling on our time-honoured sartorial traditions. We're talking, of course, about the smart summer sandal.

While formal shoes – leather lace-ups, loafers etc. – have always been the go-to for weddings, the controversial kick is growing in prominence. They’re cooler, loucher, partial to a sunnier clime and won’t have you stressing about what socks to pair with them. And while wearing a suit with sandals is hardly a new concept, it's started to enter into our regular summer rotation over the past year. Sandals featured heavily at the spring/summer ’24 shows, where designers including Dries Van Noten and Wales Bonner sent their tailoring-topped models in toe-baring footwear, while Hermès opted for a less controversial fisherman design (which is essentially a shoe with extensive ventilation).

paris, france june 21 a model walks the runway during the wales bonner ready to wear springsummer 2024 fashion show as part of the paris men fashion week on june 21, 2023 in paris, france photo by victor virgilegamma rapho via getty images
Victor Virgile//Getty Images
paris, france june 24 a model walks the runway during the hermes ready to wear springsummer 2024 fashion show as part of the paris men fashion week on june 24, 2023 in paris, france photo by victor virgilegamma rapho via getty images
Victor Virgile//Getty Images

David Beckham wore a pair of Loro Piana leather sandals with a loose, oatmeal-coloured suit to Jacquemus’ “Le Chouchou” show this June, while the sale of both sandals and tailoring has reportedly increased concurrently; Mytheresa says that leather sandals have overtaken sporty sliders as top performers, while Matches has seen sales of tailoring increase by 15%. Clearly, being suited and sandaled is the way to go.

This alludes to a more relaxed attitude around tailoring, one distant from the stuffier and more conservative styles of yore. Tailoring isn’t just a work uniform, nor is it dead (as many preached during lockdown's loungewear era). In fact, you'll likely see a less constricting, more contemporary design out and about, worn to the OOO occasions that require a put-together but comfortable look. Silhouettes are looser, cut from breathable fabrics and worn with more casual shoes, and this is emigrating to wedding-wear, too.

For men and women, traditional attitudes of what the newly-weds should wear are being eschewed for contemporary ideals; Ida Peterson, the buying director of Browns, told Harpers Bazaar “that women are coming in in increasing numbers looking for something that goes beyond your typical wedding dress and has a fashion edge to it.” This relaxed sartorial approach has trickled down to what guests can wear, but could the appearance of non-pedicured tootsies be a step too far?

“I guess it's down to the general vibe of the wedding,” says Jack Wildish, who got engaged earlier this year. While the big day is still a while away, planning for the wedding has begun; he’s already decided on wearing two outfits on the day, but what they are is yet to be determined. “I myself would only wear sandals or allow guests to, if we were getting married on a beach in Italy.”

“I think it'd be more appropriate for guests rather than the groom, but agreeing with Jack, I don't see it working in the UK,” retorts his partner, Liam Conlon-Hughams. “The Amalfi Coast? Yes! Hackney Town Hall? Maybe not.”

Straight-Leg Mélange Linen Drawstring Suit Trousers
OLIVER SPENCER Straight-Leg Mélange Linen Drawstring Suit Trousers
£230 at MR PORTER
Credit: Mr Porter
Fairway Linen Suit Jacket
OLIVER SPENCER Fairway Linen Suit Jacket
Credit: Mr Porter
Straight-Leg Pleated Linen, Wool and Silk-Blend Twill Suit Trousers
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Straight-Leg Pleated Linen, Wool and Silk-Blend Twill Suit Trousers
Credit: Mr Porter
Linen, Wool and Silk-Blend Twill Blazer
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Linen, Wool and Silk-Blend Twill Blazer
Credit: Mr Porter

The global destination weddings market is due to grow by 6% between 2022 and 2032, so that's reason enough to invest once the post-summer sales come along. But with global warming heating up the weather forecast, smart sandals might not look all that out of place at a wedding do on the Costa Del Dalston, either.

Still, there are some clear rules to follow. This is a particularly summery shoe, so you’ll need a particularly summery suit; steer clear of heavy wool mixes, and opt for linen or cotton fabrications. The cut should be relaxed, so look for a piece with that particular fit instead of sizing up your regular cut – this will look completely ill-fitting.

Of course, there's every chance that some people will take issue with it – and depending on whether there's an open bar involved, they might even tell you as much. The safest bet is to go for styles that don’t expose your toes (unless you want to show off a particularly faultless pedicure) and opt for leather to keep the look formal. Grenson, Bottega Veneta, The Row and Saint Laurent all have designs that hit the brief. But please, stay clear of Birkenstock clogs. We love them, but it’s not the time or place.

Fisherman suede sandals
The Row Fisherman suede sandals
Credit: Matches Fashion
Biarritz leather sandals
Jacques Solovière Biarritz leather sandals
Credit: Matches Fashion
Culver Leather Sandals
SAINT LAURENT Culver Leather Sandals
Credit: Mr Porter
Intrecciato-leather mules
Bottega Veneta Intrecciato-leather mules
Credit: Matches Fashion
GrensonQuincy suede sandals
Grenson GrensonQuincy suede sandals
Credit: Matches Fashion

But most importantly, even if the weather is scorching, respect the (soon-to-be-married) couple and stick to the dress code. “I wouldn't be impressed if a male guest turned up in sandals and a suit at our wedding, given we know our venue now, [and it's] a black tie affair in London. It just wouldn't fit in with the energy,” says Wildish, and Conlon-Hughams agrees. “Again it boils down to the setting; absolutely for our engagement party, as it's on a rooftop in summer, but it just wouldn't work for our venue choice.”