There's a unique magic to turning 20. You're on the cusp of adulthood, possibly still at university, and thus filled with optimism about the world ahead of you. Such sweet, misplaced joy. But in the world of watches, 20 is no age. In fact, you're still a kid, kid. Jaeger-LeCoultre's two-faced Reverso is 91. Rolex's Oyster Perpetual is 96. And Cartier's Tank is well past a telegram from the Palace at 103. That makes Louis Vuitton's Tambour Twenty watch appear all the greener as it heads into its 20th year.
But youth can be an advantage. While the vaunted halls of the Jura and beyond focus on tradition, lineage and a certain way of doing things, Louis Vuitton's banner watch has been afforded a certain experimentation. LV is ostensibly a fashion house, not necessarily a storied manufacture. And though the old school industry hasn't always seen eye-to-eye with the elite of the fashion world, the Tambour stands toe-to-toe with the greats – and does it without following the rules.
For 2022, it's an homage to the original piece. Which was a deep, flared 41.5mm case with a brown sunray dial, yellow chronograph hands and the brand's named engraved to the flank. Little has changed. That's because the Seventies feel to the Tambour is classic, but still not part of the black/navy hegemony to which most men's watches succumb.
Inside, there's an upgrade too. The LV277 movement has been created in-house. That's always a sign of technical proficiency, because making your own engine is a) expensive and b) time consuming. That's why so many marques outsource these. But not Louis Vuitton. This high frequency chronograph movement is impressive, even by fine watch standards, and comes with a specially-engraved caseback that marks its number in the limited edition run (FYI: there are only 200 pieces).
But the biggest gift of all is perhaps a video campaign directed by Damien Chazelle (he of DA DA DA DA, DA DA La La Land fame) and starring Bradley Cooper (he of "I'm off the deep end" fame). Set against the New York skyline, it's a big birthday trip for the Tambour indeed. Many happy returns, kid.
