Since TikTok started its hostile takeover of our spare time in 2020, we’ve seen enough ‘core’ style subcultures – Cottage-core, Bloke-core, need I say more-core? – to know that they’re as fleeting as a TikTok video itself. But within these transient trend cycles, one piece of clothing usually manages to break free of the feed and make a mark offline, too.
Lockdown saw the Birkenstock Boston take centre stage, while the Adidas Sambas have ruled the post-pandemic sneaker world. And their popularity is justified; they’re both comfortable shoes that suggest you’re fluent in digital discourse. But for the summer that’s been immortalised by "Barbenheimer" and a predictable lack of sandal-worthy weather, there's a more unassuming pair of ‘kicks on the block: Dr. Martens Adrian loafers.
From micro to macro influencers, just about anyone who’s recording their daily ‘fits has a pair. And it’s understandable, really, when a quick search of #adrianloafer unveils a range of easy-on-the-eye casual (jeans with a tee) to smart (suit trousers and blazer) ensembles. But the content doesn’t stop at sartorial inspiration. There’s the informative what-you-need-to-know-before-buying vids, memes about breaking them in and even mentions of the cult-like hold the shoes have on its wearers.
While the rebranding of loafers from office shoe to OOO staple isn’t particularly new, there’s a reason why this particular style is dominating the market. For one, the tassel-detailing taps into the en vogue preppy aesthetic, but the chunky nature of the soles remove any notions of looking too ‘old money’, like a pair of Tods or Loro Piana flats might. Despite making the rounds online, their wearers can argue this isn’t a trend-led purchase (which no one, for the sake of the planet, wants to admit to despite still doing) through the brand’s British heritage, paired with the Adrian style's forty plus year lifespan. But most importantly for the social media generation; they’re instantly recognisable. While fashion has moved away from the heavily logo-ed designs of the late 2010s/early 2020s, that yellow z-welch stitch and AirWair™ sole have plenty of IYKYK appeal. And as the brand has over 500k followers on the platform and 1.1 billion views on its hashtag, maybe it’s worth declaring this the start of Dr. Martens-core.
Still, while these are worth every penny (especially the Made in England pair) if you’re one to steer clear of overly hyped items, there other brands to look to for a similar silhouette. G.H Bass have long been touted for their loafers, and their Layton II Kiltie style parallels Dr. M with a lightweight EVA lug sole, while Brunello Cucinelli offer an Italian take with a suede upper.
But Solovairs (pronounced like sole-of-air, where its name derives) are your go-to if you fancy one-upping the Dr. Martens. The British brand often hides in its shadows despite having a shared history. When Dr. Klaus Maertens and his associate Dr. Herbert Funck developed DM's famed air-cushioned sole, they were in need of a factory that could make it. That led them to Solovair (known as NPS at the time) who produced their recognisable shoes under the name, ‘Dr Martens by Solovair’. In 1994, NPS registered the name and has been making shoes under their own brand in their Northamptonshire factory ever since.
Solovair Tassle Black Hi Shine Leather Loafers
Solovair Tassle Black Hi Shine Leather Loafers
With a similarly designed upper to the Adrian – though you could argue Docs are inherently punkier – their tassel iteration harnesses over 140 years of shoe-making history. And they’re even making waves in the digital worlds too, with figureheads of menswear-Tok – @edgyalbert, Evan of @used.napkins and @le_garcon_noir, to name a few – harking their admiration. (Still, with only 1,500 or so followers, they can be banked under a highly niche category).
Which brand you opt for is down to your own personal style, but there’s an important rule to remember with all of them: save your feet the blisters and wear with Compeed and thick socks for their first outing. You've been warned.
