Have you noticed, while admiring other people’s ‘fits over the past few weeks, that you've been distracted by a steady stream of psychedelic trainers? Ones with a sharp square-toe and coil-like heel? Then you’ve likely been gazing upon Martine Rose and Nike’s latest sell-out shoe, worn by the likes of Kendrick Lamar and coveted by sneakerheads everywhere: the Shox Mule MR 4.
As its design and lack of available sizes would suggest, it's one of the most unique and hard-to-get pieces on the hype market right now. But despite its striking appearance, there is an aspect to it that is far from singular. We're talking about the rise in shoes with a distinct lack of coverage on the achilles heel; the kind of trainer that only the bravest of souls would wear to a ill-tempered five-a-side.
But before we get into that, let's rewind a bit. The closed-toe mule first peaked in popularity in 2020, when people went in search of a shoe with the same comfort level as the overworn slippers they'd lived in over lockdown, but without the pity and disapproval those fluffy staples would attract in the outside world. And so, Birkenstock Bostons and JW Anderson chain-embellished mules peppered pavements, and any footwear that pinched at the toes were volleyed to the back of the wardrobe.
Nike Martine Rose Women's Shox Mule MR4
Nike Martine Rose Women's Shox Mule MR4
But that was then, and this is now. In place of the Birk, we're noticing a rise in the kind of hybrid shoe/slip-on that secures your foot from sliding about, but is designed with the kind of uncanny energy that's taken hold of Britain's summer weather forecast.
On the sporty side of the spectrum, you have futuristic designs. Oakley Factory and Brain Dead have collaborated to create the Chopsaw Canvas in a slip on style. (You may remember last year’s lace-up version instantly selling out; now you can cop a pair that saves you a few precious minutes when rushing out the door). Other out-of-this-world designs come from 1017 ALYX 9SM, Maison Margiela and Reebok, and TAKAHIROMIYASHITA TheSoloist. and Suicoke. But if you’re looking for a more regular trainer sans heel, Amiri offers the Skel style, New Balance has the 2002RM and Sunnei presents the Sabot sneakers.
Those who want a more formal version of the silhouette have options too. Martine Rose is clearly a fan of it, having released several iterations of the backless loafer – this version is particularly eye-catching. G.H. Bass has an even smarter pair, and even Birkenstock, who have always pioneered designs free of the need for a shoe horn, have the Naples; a loafer-clog fusion.
Birkenstock BirkenstockNaples suede backless loafers
New Balance Taupe 2002RM Sneakers
Martine Rose Black Square Toe Mules
OAKLEY FACTORY + Brain Dead Chopsaw Canvas and Stretch-Knit Slip-On Sneakers
What to wear with said shoe will be dependent on what wacky wonder you’ve opted for, but really, it’s easy: attention will be brought to ground level, so keep whatever you’re wearing up-top simple and let you footwear do the work.
