When it comes to the ‘look stylish or dress practically’ conundrum, striking the balance can be harder than it seems – especially when you’re battling with snowfall and teeth-chattering temperatures. Take the Christmas party, for example. On one hand, dressing in a suit and tie is the failsafe, but comes at the risk of uncontrollable shivers. Hoodies, down jackets, fleeces etc all tick the ‘keep warm’ checkbox but won’t have you feeling put together. You need a jumper that can do both; you need a cable knit sweater.
A chunky piece of classic knitwear renowned for its cosiness, warmth and affiliation with the sea (and recently backed by chunky piece of classic man, Ben Affleck), the cable knit is having something of a renaissance right now. The style has been populating autumn/winter ‘22 runways, with AMI, Dries Van Noten and Etro presenting highlighter pack iterations of the design. It even seeped into the spring/summer ’23 shows, proving that there’s always a season for it; AGR and Robyn Lynch chopped the sleeves to create arm-baring vests, while Fendi released a lighter, short-sleeved version that’s perfect for days by the coast. Designers can modernise the knit without removing the details that make it so charming.
Maybe part of the reason for its recent resurgence is its unique history. Legend goes that it was first crafted in the 19th century, designed for sailors to wear whilst out on expeditions, as its raised, chunky texture would make them easy to spot if they went overboard. In actual fact, women on the Aran Islands started knitting the garments as a way of making money when jobs were lacking, and they quickly became a symbol of Irish craftsmanship. As decades went by, their dense yarn was swapped for softer wool, and their association changed from that of fishermen’s uniform to a celebrities’ one. Its popularity grew when it was worn by Elvis Presley in Jailhouse Rock, which continued in the ‘60s when Steve McQueen and John Lennon both became synonymous with the knit. The most recent instance of worldwide admiration (and domination) came in 2019, when Chris Evans wore a style in Knives Out, resulting in a “sweater mania” that increased sales globally. A few years on and there’s another cohort of admirers donning the knit, including Romeo Beckham and Harry Styles.
Seated courtside at a recent Knicks game, Affleck completed his cable knit look with a simple white tee, faded pair of blue jeans and some Nike Dunk Low Pro’s. It strikes the balance of being subtly suave on top and relaxed on the bottom; style codes that, when followed, will always produce a winning outfit.
British brand Reiss presents earth-hued styles that emulate Affleck’s look – shawl collar and all – while those who prefer the customary design should opt for a heritage brand. Peregrine’s Hudson jumper is a best seller among their repertoire, while Sunspel’s take is spun from soft merino wool. As a trailblazer of preppy style, Ralph Lauren is renowned for its cable knit. But for more contemporary takes, designer (and Ralph’s son) Greg Lauren and Camp High present upcycled and tie-dye styles worthy of Gen Z approval. All while international fashion houses, such as Etro, Saint Laurent and Acne Studios, pack a punch with vivid colour palettes that bring the traditional technique into 2022. Winter dressing: sorted.
