TV on Trial

Heston's Fantastical Food

We all know Heston likes a food experiment. But does Fantastical Food show that he's finally lost the plot?

We've liked Heston's recent series - who wouldn't know how to cook perfect versions of classics? - but sometimes we feel like he's a man who has to be saved from himself. The kind of guy who's on the verge of an company saving idea or one that gets him laughed out of the boardroom. If we had to compare his past series to this one we'd say that the perfection series was the company saver while Fantastical Food is the latter.

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Like most Heston shows, it's a nice idea in theory. We'd all like the ultimate breakfast. It was just the silly, gimmicky way he's gone about it that put us off. Whether it's riding a steam train, doing sound based crunch tests or trying to create a massive boiled egg filled with mango puree, it was an exercise in pointlessness. We can't see the point in supersizing anything, especially when it won't improve the taste. Add in super size cutlery and you have a man who's show has descended into self parody.

Food 'science' (or, to call it what it is, jiggery-pokery) has its place. But if we wanted to see someone acting like Willy Wonky, we'd give Gene Wilder a call. As much as we like to see Heston in action, we'd recommend giving this series a skip until he drops the gimmicks and goes back to showing us something that could help us cook better food.

Tuesdays, 9pm, Channel 4