TV On Trial

The Little Paris Kitchen

Say what you want about TV, but it's always been great at solving problems you never knew you had. The latest is 'The Little Paris Kitchen', which aims to make French food simple and easy. Hmmm.

Leading the way this time is Rachel Khoo, the latest in BBC's factory line of attractive female chefs. They started out with Nigella, bumped it up a notch with model Sophie Dahl (quickly dumped when they realised she spoke like the Queen Elizabeth character in Blackadder) before stopping off at Lorraine Pascale.

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If we didn't know any better, we'd say these people are being chosen to distract us from the .

So how does this show hold up?

The first thing we noticed was how Français everything is. And we mean that in that most awfully stereotypical way possible. It's like the producers actually thought 'Midnight in Paris' was a good film and decided to base an entire series around it.

Once you get past the attempt to shameless attempt to recreate the 'charm' of Amelie you're left to contend with Rachel Khoo who, in all fairness, seems lovely.

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But the constant talk of her restaurant starts to grate. When you run a restaurant from a tiny flat (with only one table) is it a restaurant? Or are you just charging people to pop round? We say the latter. But that's not our big problem.

The issue is the food, which doesn't look good. In fact, it looks like something you'd knock up after 30 minutes of an hour long cooking class - not terrible, but not exactly great either. And definitely not worth presenting on a cookery show.

Like we said, Khoo seems perfectly nice. The premise of the show? Not so much. We've never thought of French food as difficult, so the idea that it needs to be dumbed down is an odd one. We'll be teaching people how to bake by hiding behind macho rhetoric next. Oh wait.

BBC 2, Mondays, 8:30pm