Wine for the weekend - Melon sur Granit, Pays Nantais 2006

While we’re of the opinion everyone should live and let live, drink and let drink, we do have a couple of wine-based pet hates — one of which is a growing reliance on branded wine that just isn’t up to much. (You know the main culprits without us naming and shaming here.)

So we were delighted to find that Burgundian Anne Claude Leflaive has attempted to buck this trend by hand-picking a selection of top quality producers and endorsing them with her name. Each of the “Selections Anne Claude” represents an extremely good yet under-championed wine.

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We were particularly impressed with this muscadet. Yes, you read that right. Too long considered the insipid and watery scourge of dodgy dinner parties, this bottle will get muscadet back on your menu. Though not especially full bodied (you wouldn’t expect it to be) this is a lively, zesty, fresh, citrus-flavoured wine with an acidic zingyness.

It has a really minerally edge with floral and white fruit aromas on the nose. It’s remarkably confident and for the price, an absolute winner. Serve it with oysters, shellfish or - at a push - chicken. £12.80 at Armit