Whether you go in summer, to enjoy the madness induced by near-perpetual daylight, or in winter, to endure the madness induced by near-perpetual darkness, Iceland is a destination that’s energised by extremes. There’s steam and lava erupting from the earth, crystal water cascading from the hillsides and, as recently as the 1960s, new islands exploding from the sea. Nature is boss here, and she won’t let you forget it.
It's also home, as you probably well know, to one of the world’s coolest cities. In the capital, Reykjavik, there are great bars, superior restaurants, and museums in all directions (see also: branches of homegrown outdoorwear brand 66°North – seriously, they’re everywhere). It’s a city that hums with eccentricity and creativity, and – during the summer season at least – more than the odd American holidaymaker craving a taste of the Nordics without a 12-hour flight.
But Reykjavik is also a city that’s surrounded by nature – from the whales in the bay to the mountains that loom around it – and which can’t help but inspire you to stick the Sigur Rós on Spotify and go for a drive. Here are our suggestions of ways in which to make the most of a city-stay in Reykjavik, plus what to do if you factor in a day or two further afield.
Where to Stay
Reykjavik is heaving with accommodation options, from budget hostels to luxury hotels, but unless you’re in your late teens and are actively excited by the prospect of a quadruple bunkbed we would firmly steer you towards the more comfortable end of things. Opened in 2021, the Reykjavik Edition is most decidedly in that camp and is something a scene in itself – the 253-room hotel is right on the harbour and boasts sleek design, charming staff, glossy clientele, a rooftop bar and an exceptional restaurant, Tides, helmed by chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason.
What to Do
As compact capitals go, Reykjavik is something of a pedestrian’s dream. Using the iconic Hallgrimskirkja as your lodestar (you can also pay to go up the tower and take in the view), you can explore the appealing bars and cafes tucked along the Downtown side-streets, or snoop at the cute higgledy-piggledy houses of the Old West Side, or – if you must – buy yourself some knitted booties from the touristy shops on the heavily Instagrammed Skolavordustigur (also known as "Rainbow Street").
Reykjavik boasts a bounty of museums that range from the refined to the ridiculous (although apparently the Phallological Museum is more edifying than it sounds). To keep it classy, the National Gallery of Iceland gets you into three sites – the stately house of collections; the stylish art museum; and the wonderfully atmospheric Asgrim Jonsson’s house, the former home of the revered Icelandic painter – and takes you on a nice wander around town in between.
Further out, and at the experiential end, Perlan (pictured above) is the whizzy “interactive nature museum” that provides edutaining gimmicks (a walk-through ice cave, a Northern Lights show) and more information about Tectonic Plates than you will know what to do with. For something more sedentary, there are concerts at Harpa, home of the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra, though the stunning building, with its jewel-like façade co-designed by Olafur Eliasson, is also worth the trip alone.
Where to Eat
We’ll take it as read that you’ll be sampling a hotdog from Bæjarins Beztu (see above) at some point in your Reykjavik stay (though if you miss it there’s a concession in the departures lounge of Keflavik Airport), and that you will undoubtedly find yourself lured into a branch of Brauð & co for a pastry. For sit-down restaurants there’s the swishy Kol for fine-dining, or for excellent food and wine and also nice – sorry, there’s no other word for it – vibes, Mat Bar is strongly recommended, with a stroll down to the convincingly Italian Gaeta Gelato for dessert.
Which Lagoon?
It’s true that the Blue Lagoon is a tourist cliché, but it’s also true that those guys know what they’re doing. Not only do you get to bathe in the turquoise waters of the heated pools, but you can buy face mask treatments and a beer, all without having to get more than your shoulders out into the breeze. And when you’ve finally dried off, there’s a choice of two on-site restaurants – the Michelin-starred Moss or the lower-key Lava – from which to recover from all that lolling around (and a luxury spa hotel, the Retreat, to crash in if you can’t make it home).
However, it should be said there are other baths to be had – everywhere you turn in Iceland in fact – it’s kind of their thing, and they do it supremely well. You could try Laugarvatn Fontana an hour east of the city, or the Secret Lagoon another half-hour further on – which proclaims itself “the oldest swimming pool in Iceland” (a claim that is disputed by Seljavallalaug Pool to the south). Basically, you’re unlikely to go short of a soak.
… And Beyond
You won’t have been in Iceland for 10 minutes before you hear talk of the “Golden Circle” – the loop of big-hitter geological wonders that can be reached by coach in a single (long) day. It’s a great way of ticking waterfalls and volcanoes off your to-do list, but, thanks to the steady stream of tourists alongside you, particularly in the summer, it can feel a bit like… Ticking waterfalls and volcanoes off your to-do list. However, invest in a hire car and turn off the ring road (and make sure it’s a 4x4 if you want to go anywhere even remotely intrepid) and you’ll find the roads emptying, the vistas widening and Iceland opening up.
You could try the islands, such as tiny Flatey to the west, where you’d be advised to stay at the delightful Hótel Flatey (and actually, you’d have no choice, as it’s the only hotel there), or the Westman Islands in the south, home to what is believed to be the world’s largest puffin colony, a beluga whale sanctuary, and a truly excellent restaurant, Slippurinn.
Or you could explore Iceland’s mountainous middle, where the landscapes get really lunar and even more spectacular. The newly opened Highland Base hotel in Kerlingarfjöll (below) is both a peaceful and stylish place to stay (and will be even more so when the on-site thermal baths open later this year) and an excellent base, as the name suggests, from which to explore the geothermal areas (above) either on your own – or, if you’re not so comfortable around sheer scree drops, with an expert guide from Outsiders Iceland, which Highland Base can arrange. highlandbase.is
