As the planet’s most visited city, it’s safe to say there’s more than enough to do in Paris. Almost 50 million tourists descend on the French capital every year, and thankfully the locals have adjusted accordingly. There is plenty of food and wine – too much, if anything – as well as the best culture, architecture, shopping and good times society has to offer. As TS Eliot said, “The chief danger of Paris is that it is such a strong stimulant.”
But such an embarrassment of riches can be a minefield, and you can really get Paris wrong. Location is key, and though the hotels are abundant, many are just completely rubbish. And for every cute little cafe – and there are scores – there is a money pit serving yesterday’s bread and underwhelming claret. Thankfully, Paris happens to be Esquire’s second home, and over the years we’ve seen enough of the city to get its measure. We know what to do, where to stay, and where to buy the greatest sandwich in the world. And now you can too.
Where to eat
The beating heart of Paris’ food scene is its bistros and brasseries, and there are literally hundreds, although some are considerably better than others, and a few much better than most. They serve classic, casual food all day, and are the go-to for a ‘formule’ (breakfast of coffee, juice and a pastry), a light lunch, a bottle of good wine, or a hearty dinner. Service is fast and unfussy, and everything comes with chips if you want it to. Cafe Flore on the Boulevard St Germain is perhaps the quintessential Parisian all-day spot, characterised by its intellectual renown, its curt but courteous waiters and its menu of French classics. They say this is the best croque-monsieur in the city, but that’s very much open to debate. If there is a queue – which there often is, Flore has become quite Instagrammable – cross the road to Brasserie Lipp, which is slightly more formal, but overall a much better prospect. Other notable brasseries and bistros include Bouillon Chartier, Chez Rene and Bofinger, and if you have the opportunity to visit Chez George in the 1st, you must. Order the jambon-persille and a carafe of delicious wine and settle in.
Otherwise, visit Cafe du Coin in the 11th for natural wine and sea bass crudo, Les Arlots in the 10th for sausages and aligot, or any of the many noodle bars near Rue Rameau in the 1st.
Finally, no visit to Paris is complete without a visit to Chez Aline in 11th, purveyor of the best jambon-beurre (ham and butter) sandwich in the city, and therefore the best sandwich in the world. Take it to nearby Place des Vosges and watch the world go by.
Where to stay
As with other cities, every neighbourhood has its champions and detractors, but for a brief sortie into the city, the Marais - Paris’ equivalent of London’s Soho or New York’s Lower East Side - is perhaps the best neighbourhood to base oneself. Just northeast of the very centre, it’s ideal for those that want to explore on foot, but far enough from all the big attractions that you can get away from the crowds. (Or look a little further east at Bastille for a similar vibe, but a few less tourists.) Hotel Sookie is a brilliant little spot, with comfy beds and a lovely cafe in the ground floor, and exceptionally comfortable beds.
If you want to go up market, there are a number of very chic, very expensive hotels in the 1st arrondissement, including Hotel de Crillon, Le Meurice and Le Bristol. But why not opt for L’Hotel, just across the river. It has some of the best martinis in the city, which is perhaps why Oscar Wilde stayed there when he was in town. In fact, you can even sleep in his old bed. Just ignore the fact he might have died in it.
What to do
If you have the time and patience, definitely visit the Louvre, but don’t turn up without a pre-booked ticket, especially at the weekend. You will queue for hours. L’Orangerie and Musee d’Orsay are worth a visit, too, but it’s a similar story. The Pompidou Centre is more forgiving to latecomers, and has a lovely cafe on the top floor (with unbeatable views), but the big museums can be a real slog.
Instead, visit one of the lesser-frequented (but still excellent) galleries and museums, such as the beautiful Musee Bourdelle for sculpture, Musee Cognacq-Jay for Rembrandts and Canaletos, or Maison LaRoche in the far east of the city, home of the Fondation Le Corbusier.
Sport may not be the first thing you think of when you think of Paris, but it has plenty for even the meatiest of meatheads, especially with the Olympics in town this year. If there’s a game on, it’s worth getting a seat at PSG to witness the team’s Sisyphean quest for meaningful silverware… or catch a street basketball game at one of the many outdoor courts dotted through the city. Paris loves basketball, so much in fact, that in January 2024 it hosted an NBA league game between the Brooklyn Nets and the Cleveland Cavaliers. A recent study by Hotels.com showed that almost a third of travellers have gone to another country to watch an NBA game, so you can see where the future of the game is heading (as for the Olympics, it turns out searches for accommodation in France have surged by 620%, with Paris naturally taking top spot).
In terms of shopping, it’s always fun (but perhaps ill-advised) to take a postprandial wander around Le Bon Marché in St Germain, and if you have any money left, you could go digging in any of the many vintage stores in the Marais. Otherwise, stop in to Brut for new, old and reworked classic menswear and workwear, Royal Cheese for the best edit of shoes in the city, and Husbands, for kitsch-but-cool tailoring.
How to get there
The Eurostar is the obvious choice in every department. Quicker (overall) and easier than a flight from London, and it delivers you straight into the belly of the city.
