Istria, the largest peninsula in the Adriatic Sea, has a long and complex cultural history. The Romans, the Venetians and the Austria-Hungarians all fought over it. Napoleon occupied it, relinquished it, then occupied it again. Following the break-up of Yugoslavia in 1991, it is now one of twenty counties in the Republic of Croatia.
Strategically advantageous geography aside, Istria’s charms are manifold. Its microclimate make it exceptional for crops. Its clean limestone coast gives it an air of regal import. And its medieval hilltop settlements and tumbling village roads are some of the prettiest in Europe.
Today this westernmost point of Croatia has fallen in with a new generation of visitors, making it one of 2019’s must-visit locations while retaining its dusty Venetian charm. Nowhere is this truer than in Rovinj, the grand and beautiful old town jutting into the sea, characterised by colourful houses, gourmet cycling tours and a fondness for fine foods, fine wine, summer music festivals and autumn truffle-hunts. What started life as a fishing town – the Rovinj Archipelago has 22 islands and inlets – is now an area of protected natural heritage.
The completion of the Grand Park Hotel Rovinj opens a new chapter in this Adriatic hotspot, something that was launched with the Adris 44Cup sailing regatta and a concert by Andrea Bocelli, the world-renowned tenor, Grand Officer of the Order of Merit of the Italian Republic and the recipient of numerous accolades, including his voice being likened to that of God’s. That sets the bar pretty high. The five-star Grand Park, part of the Maistra suite of hotels, resorts and apartments, was built to deliver.
Surrounded by pine trees, with the old town and new marina opening up beneath it, its terraces are so close to the sea they appear to touch the water. It was designed by the celebrated Italian architect and designer Piero Lissoni, noted for his work for interiors companies B&B Italia, Cappellini and Flos, projects as far afield as Beijing, Seoul and Miami Beach and his love of buildings that compliment their environment (he’s a fan of the New York’s High Line, and you can tell). Its interiors are characterised by expanses of minimalist wood offset with several showrooms worth of on-trend modernist furniture. Rooms are spacious and come with magnificent views of the old town. Its to Lissoni, and the hotel’s, credit that they could have crammed in twice the number of guests. Instead the rooms and communal spaces are given space to breathe. The culinary director is Jeffrey Vella, formerly of Claridge’s, and the fifth floor Cap Aureo restaurant – one of three places to eat – is Michelin class. It may be worth a visit for the location alone.
It seems superfluous at this point to mention there’s also a huge infinity pool, a world class spa, games room, free use of bikes, a terrific cocktail barman and a charging station for your Tesla... but since we’re here, it would be rude not to.
It’s a fittingly smart spot for a fishing port entering a new era of luxury. Beneath the tangle of cobbled streets leading to the hilltop church of St Euphemia, whose towering steeple dominates the skyline, magnificently lit up at night, is the chi-chi marina, now offering the Park Concept Store (think Colette meets The Conran Shop), independent eyewear boutique Eyeconomy Club, luxury jewellers Sovilj and Bitinada, a peerless fish restaurant that's also the perfect spot for an aperitif.
Expanding European connections make Rovinj easier than ever to visit. Get there before everyone else does.
