By 
This World Cup feels very different for a number of reasons. One of the more minor of those reasons – but still a very noticeable one – is that the communal experience of watching England, Wales and whoever else you're supporting is going to be completely different.
It's cold. It's wet. Much of it is indefensible. Naturally, going to the pub or, particularly, standing around in a big outdoor space watching matches won't be like the heady, carefree summer of 2018 when everyone had a larf watching games in – let me check my notes here – Vladimir Putin's Russia. Simpler times!
Quite a number of pubs have decided that they don't want to be involved at all in the World Cup, and aren't showing it. There are loads of good spots which are putting it on though. Here are our picks from around London.
The Cadogan Arms, Chelsea
This extremely zhuzhy, sprawling, richly decorated pub got a full makeover in 2021 and now feels somewhere between an Edwardian boozer and a weekend bolthole owned by the a minor European royal family. There are two big screens in the main bar and another in the dining room bit, and you'll definitely want to eat if you're heading here. Get the boneless Cornish lamb ribs with anchovy dip and then confit duck leg, though the burgers are very good too. The World Cup platter teams those ribs with buttermilk fried chicken, a black pudding Scotch egg and fancy pork scratchings.
The Faltering Fullback, Finsbury Park
The classic north London sports pub probably won't get much use out of its labyrinthine gardens, but it's still a good shout. Cosy barroom on one side, gigantic barn-like room on the other, with big screens and Thai food on the menu. Can't get in? Try the Twelve Pins by the station, or take a bus up Stroud Green Road to The Stapleton.
Valderrama's, Islington
Along Upper Street from James Cochran's restaurant 12:51 is his other spot. Valderrama's is a different kind of sports bar: neon murals, frozen margaritas and the kind of fried chicken sandwiches that have inspired a dedicated cult following await.
Flat Iron Square, Borough
An Esquire delegation watched the England-Columbia shootout victory here during the last World Cup, so we've got a bit of a soft spot for it. This time they've got more screens inside for when the inevitable downpour comes, plus a big outdoor one with – thank God – big heaters.
Bar Kick, Shoreditch
A dedicated football bar with screens up the wazoo, you'll probably want to be trying to sneak a booking here rather than marching up with a song in your heart and a Cymru dragon on your cheek.
De Hems, Soho
Back in the Second World War this was the unofficial HQ of the Dutch resistance, and took its name from landlord 'Papa' De Hem who ran it back in the early 1900s when it was as popular for its oyster bar as its beer. Naturally, it's a huge spot for Netherlands fans. Get down mega-early if they're playing.
The Lyric, Soho
We're loath to put this one on, given that its barroom gets rammed enough as it is most nights of the week. But it's just so good. Thirty-three taps of beers, lagers and ciders from across the country are yours, as is the kind of febrile atmosphere only a small front room can create. Bit like going round your mate's, but without having to worry about tidying up the empties.
The Wigmore, central
Up the top end of Regent Street near New Broadcasting House, the extremely swish Wigmore has a 120-inch screen in its back room and gorgeous mid-century looks. You'll need to book a table in advance, but it's worth it. The food is great too.
The Effra Social, Brixton
Formerly a Conservative Social Club, now a social pub, there's a very endearing (and deliberate) kitschiness to the look of the Effra Social. The substantial back room will have a big screen, while the outdoor area out the front's got rain cover and heaters. If it's too rammed, try The Effra Hall Tavern. Good atmos, nice people, really good jerk chicken. No dogs or kids, mind.
The Hemingford Arms, Islington
Squishy chesterfields, an open fire, tons of good beers on: this might be a pub specifically built for a winter World Cup. It's on a quiet backstreet and has loads of greenery all over its mush, which I've found are two gigantic ticks when looking for a decent London boozer. You're just down the road from the Tamil Prince and its excellent Indian food too.
The Royal Oak, Bethnal Green
A home away from home for many of the 20- and 30-somethings around here, and a very popular coffee stop for the Sunday morning Columbia Road market crowd, the Royal Oak's a reliably boisterous shout for a game.
Big Penny Social, Walthamstow
Formerly Trumans Social Club, the biggest of the giant brewery hangars around Blackhorse Road – Signature, Exale, Wild Card and Hackney Brewery are on the same shore of the Walthamstow welands, with Beavertown on the Tottenham side – is showing every single game. They've got 98 taps on over four bars, so you shouldn't be waiting too long for a bev either.
The Bow Bells, Bow
You can't miss this one, it's bright orange. The Bow Bells manages to be all things to all people, a properly inclusive and fun community pub which is as beloved of longstanding locals as it is the Johnny- and Joanie-come-latelies.
The Windmill, Clapham
Loads of screens, loads of tables, loads of room. It's right on the common too, so it's easy enough to sprint around the corner to recreate Kieffer Moore's last-minute winner/tear open your shirt and scream in fury at the footballing gods.
The Prince of Peckham, Peckham
OK, don't shoot the messenger, but its a fiver for a 'standing ticket' to watch England v Iran and £50 a table. I know, I know. However! The Prince is a brilliant pub, and the food is belting too.
The Prince Regent, Herne Hill
You're not short of good choices in Herne Hill, with The Florence, The Commercial and The Half Moon Inn a couple of minutes' walk from the station. (The Florence is the pub of choice for Herne Hill's more chi-chi parents, so just bear in mind before you celebrate and accidentally knee a child in the face.) The Regent's the most proper-boozer-y though, though with distinctly above average food.
