You want the best. And heck, you deserve the best. But there's a lot of choice out there, and sometimes the best is hard to find. Fortunately, we know where to find it. Every week, the Esquire editors reveal their favourite brands, from under-the-radar steals to luxury loves, so you can invest in the best clothes, watches and accessories that money can buy.
This week, the best rings for men, because the best sort of men wear rings, frankly.
Maria Black
Finlay Renwick, Deputy Style Editor
"I was never a jewellery guy, that was until I got my first gold signet from Maria Black. A simple gold piece that slotted perfectly onto my right index finger and has barely left it since.
"Founded in Copenhagen in 2010, Black makes cool, elegant, fun, jewellery that can be worn by women and men. It’s the kind of brand where you can buy a gold ring that says ‘Dad’ on it, or a simple sterling silver band. The prices denote quality without making you yell “AH!” It’s jewellery that makes you feel good. Over several years, my signet ring has been scuffed and scratched, and become moulded to the shape of my bony finger. Now that I’m a jewellery guy, it feels like an intrinsic part of my outfit and my routine; a simple gold signet that I couldn’t be without."
Emanuele Bicocchi
Murray Clark, Digital Style Editor
"Unlike my esteemed colleague, I was always a jewellery guy: lots of gold, lots of shine, and lots of it, really. It's a family thing. Every other sun-bleached photo of my baritoned, burly, strictly business granddad depicts two loaf fists, propped up on the varnished MDF of a social club bar, and covered in bulky gold knuckledusters. I even wear one today. It's precious and sits on my pinky and has a big fat diamond in the middle like I'm a loanshark.
"You can't buy that one though. My mum would lose her head. But the closest comes from Florence-based designer Emanuele Bicocchi. The purveyor of simple-but-still-a-bit-showy jewellery has been making these such things since the tender age of 23, and this ridged band, 24-karat beauty is equal parts Grandad Wally on a Friday night, and merchant of Neo-Firenze."
Bleue Burnham
Charlie Teasdale, Style Director
"I never used to be much of a jewellery person, but I bought a vintage ring on a trip to Paris a couple of years ago, and my fandom has been growing ever since – and just in time for the re-rise of men’s jewellery… what a stroke of luck. For a while, it was all about gothic designs and signet rings – things that made a macho statement – but men’s jewellery has softened recently, and we seem to be embracing more stones, more (traditionally feminine) colour and more delicate shapes.
"To that end, I love what Bleue Burnham does. His collection ranges from simple bands with subtle detailing to irreverent signets with unusual engravings (see: turmeric leaves, marigold flowers), all the way up to fine, ornate costume jewellery with multicoloured stones. He also uses recycled metals where possible, too."
Alec Doherty
Dan Choppen, Fashion Assistant
"I met Alec Doherty in his East London studio for a photoshoot Esquire produced in collaboration with Gucci for their new watch series. Originally from Darlington, Alec specialises in bold character-based illustrations, creating clever compositions that combine strong primary colours with a sense of playfulness. Before the shoot, I first encountered his art on the bottles of my favourite pale ale (stop it) by Partizan Brewery, where he's the resident label designer.
"In 2018, Doherty released his first jewellery collection, 'Mood Rings', after not being able to find a signet ring that he liked. The faces in his jewellery are a nostalgic look back at those he remembers as a teenager, and it's all carved in studio before being cast and finished in London's Hatton Garden using reclaimed gold and sterling silver."
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