With the unusually warm start to the autumnal season, your summer wardrobe has been working hard. A bit too hard, in fact, considering it’s nearly November. But layering aficionados can breathe a sigh of relief: knitwear weather is back.
If this time of year conjures up stills of Billy Crystal’s cable knit-clad Harry Burns or The Dude in a Pendleton sweater, then I suggest you bank those looks for Christmas time. Because this season, that cosy, body-hiding silhouette has been swapped for something else: knit-infused looks that are a lot more skin baring and a lot more sexy.
It started during January’s autumn/winter ’23 shows, where collections wouldn’t focus on the texture of knits, but more so the flesh beneath it.
Prada had the most memorable look, presenting collar-topped cardigans left open to expose the rewards of regular sit-ups, which was also seen at the inherently indie-sleaze brand Celine. Dior and Rick Owens both had silhouettes with deep V-necklines, styled with either nothing underneath or a barely-there chiffon top. At Fendi, knitted vests had asymmetric necklines that highlighted the top of the model’s pecs and defined traps. And while JW Anderson’s knitwear didn’t have any torso revealing elements, the crotch-covering jumpers were styled bottoms-less; the type of rushed look for greeting the postman that’s awoken you from a slumber with last night’s rendezvous.
And as said collections hit the rails, more sexy knitwear has appeared on the September runways. The turtlenecks at Burberry were missing side panels, exposing sculpted arms as well as defined ribcages, while Maison Margiela had open cardigans sans a top underneath.
And on the front row, director-turned-actor Will Sharpe offered his take by showing a little more chest hair at the Bottega Veneta show, wearing an open-collar jumper with some equally racy leather trousers.
You probably will have noticed that the garments being described aren’t actually that different from what’s already in your wardrobe. You’ll likely have a V-neck cardy, and an open-collar jumper. And if you’ve succumbed to TikTok’s addictive algorithm, you might have been influenced to crop your T-shirt this summer, starting the momentum for ‘accidentally’ shrinking one of your cashmere jumpers this autumn. Because it’s not so much that the clothes themselves are inherently sexy, but that the menswear landscape is so sensual that it’s imbuing basics with ‘come hither’ capabilities.
Rick Owens Cashmere and Wool-Blend Sweater Vest
Bottega Veneta Ribbed-Knit Polo Sweater
Celine Homme Embellished Embroidered Alpaca-Blend Cardigan
Achieving the look will require a mindset shift. These are no longer just warming layers, but agents of provocation. The brave should jump in headfirst and bare their torso with an open cardigan, even if it is a grandad-approved style. Or opt for the slightly more conservative option, a piece that has an open-collar and a deep V; exposing the sternum is still risqué but doesn’t prerequisite hours at the gym. Even a fine, loose knit that’s as sheer as chiffon will still have others wondering what’s underneath.
Jacquemus, Isabel Marant and Commas all offer skin-exposing options, if you’re looking for options outside of the aforementioned fashion brands, but you needn’t have to buy new. You’ve just got to bring the confidence of an ex-Baywatch star to your worn knitwear – sadly that can’t be purchased.
