Frank Ocean probably didn’t expect to become the poster boy of the gorpcore movement when he rocked up to Paris Fashion Week in an Arc’teryx toque beanie, a Mammut puffer and some Diemme hiking boots, along with some straight-leg jeans and a big leather bag, back in 2019. But that’s exactly what happened.
The famously introverted musician was by no means the first to incorporate uber-capable outerwear into inner-city get-ups; soft-palmed men across the land had been turning up to their email jobs in full adventurer cosplay for a couple of years by that point. And yet, he immediately sent the trend into overdrive when those pivotal paparazzi pics appeared online.
“This Frank Ocean look spoke to many men, including myself,” Mr Porter’s Style Director, Olie Arnold, tells us. “He looked comfortable and ready for anything, whilst also looking great. What’s not to love?”
Five years on, his PFW 'fit remains the blueprint of a look that has become a true mainstay of menswear.
A little explainer for those who still need it: the term itself was coined by The Cut writer Jason Chen in his 2017 article 'First Came Normcore. Now Get Ready for Gorpcore'. He named Planet Earth's sudden predilection for alpine togs after the Good Ol' Raisins and Peanuts one is inclined to gobble up whilst on an incline.
Salomon sneakers were suddenly the moment. Arc'teryx everything was flying off the shelves. Columbia fleeces, Oakley sunnies, The North Face jackets and Merrell mocs formed the gorpcore starter pack; bonus points were handed out for Snow Peak ripstop jackets, And Wander backpacks and Gramicci climbing trousers.
The expression has since been flattened into a shorthand for the broader outdoors-y aesthetic, typified by pieces aimed at people who climb mountains, walk trails, or at least frequent Seven Sisters. Even luxury brands have been in on the movement. Dior did it. Jil Sander and Gucci too.
“While there are some brands that solely focus on functional performance wear or outerwear, there is now a greater sense of practicality being applied across all forms of ready-to-wear,” says burgeoning fashion designer Charlie Constantinou over email.
If you ask Arnold, gorpcore's success lies in the fact that it allows men to “finally geek out about product.” To his point, a lot of the trend's mainstream popularity springs from the technological capabilities of the garments.
Vollebak's Indestructible line, for instance, is built from a fibre 15x stronger than steel (now, if that isn't a reason to purchase...). And The North Face's Summit Series utilises the label's trademark Futurelight technology formed using nano spinning technology that adds air permeability to a waterproof membrane for the first time.
“We don’t have any 8,000-metre peaks in the UK,” says The North Face Senior Design Director, Darren Shooter, “but it’s clear that the consumers buying this product wants to own the most technical product on the market that will last them for years to come.”
You see, contemporary shoppers value sustainability, and therefore sensible investments.
Gorpcore pieces are traditionally made to last and are easily mended, with many brands – including The North Face and Arc’teryx – offering in-store repair services.
Plus, plenty of gorpcore marques craft their goods from recycled or environmentally responsible materials. For example, Constantinou crafted his collection for 66°North from deadstock fabrics used in the mainline collection.
Post-pandemic, gorpcore's unabating ubiquity within fashion-forward circles – especially those formed by Millennial and Gen-Zs – has a lot to do with a newfound zeal for The Great Outdoors. Discerning dressers are now actually using all-conditions wear to explore the wilderness.
Shooter speaks of a “post-COVID urge to get out there and explore”. Stevie Gildea, brand manager at Gramicci UK agrees: “Off the back of COVID, there has been an explosion of younger people wanting to get into nature and gain experiences. The trend of bird-watching, hiking & climbing groups is bringing like-minded people together to share experiences; they also like to look good doing it.” The activity of Insta accounts like @114.index and @outsideintel verify his statement.
With all of this this in mind, it stands to reason that gorpcore will continue set up camp in our wardrobes for an extended duration.
“I see gorpcore more as a change of consciousness, rather than a passing trend,” says Shooter.
Constantinou, for one, is betting on it: his latest tech-heavy line with 66°North doesn't drop until October.
Just please refrain from going full-on Duke of Edinburgh. We're past that, really. Instead, keep it '24 by mingling your gorpcore heroes with timeless staples – like blue denim and fine leather accessories, just as Ocean did back in '19.
